Subject Index

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Aglianico (wine)	no. 76 — Winter 2008
Albondigas (meatballs)	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Alsace	no. 37 — Winter 1996
American Minor Breeds Conservancy	no. 26 — Spring 1993
Anchovies
Campania	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Catalonia	no. 38 — Spring 1996
Andouillette de Troyes	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Apulia	no. 35 — Summer 1995
Apulia	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Argan oil	no. 77 — Spring 2008
Avgotaraho (cured gray mullet roe)	no. 78 — Spring 2008
Bacon	no. 42 — Spring 1997
Baklava	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Balsamic vinegar	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Banyuls (wine)	no. 44 — Fall 1997
Basil	no. 66 — Summer 2004
Basilicata	no. 68 — Summer 2008
Beans, green	no. 72 — Summer 2006
Beaujolais	no. 67 — Fall 2004
Beef
Charolais	no. 69 — Summer 2005
dry-aged steak	no. 47 — Summer 1998
Piedmont	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Beer	no. 57 — Spring 2001
Belgian
English	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Behr, Edward, self-interview	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
Bourgueil wine	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Bread
baguette	no. 45 — Winter 1998
baguette	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
Cornish saffron cake	no. 61 — Spring 2002
croissants	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Italian unsalted	no. 71 — Spring 2006
pain au levain	no. 83 — Winter 2010
paximadia	no. 82 — Fall 2009
pizza, Naples	no. 22 — Spring 1992
spice, French (pain d'epices)	no. 59 — 2001
Tuscan	no. 41 — Winter 1997
white loaf	no. 29 — Winter 1994
white loaf follow-up	no. 30 — Spring 1994
Buckwheat noodles, South Korea	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Burgundy	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Butter	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Buttermilk	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Cajun food	no. 34 — Spring 1995
Cannoli	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Capers	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Carrù	no. 83— Winter 2010
Castelmagno (cheese)	no. 56 — Winter 2001
Catalan food	no. 38 — Spring 1996
Caviar	no. 44 — Fall 1997
Champagne	no. 48 — Fall 1998
Chapulines (crickets, grasshoppers and locusts)	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Charbons	no. 57 — Spring 2001
Charcuterie, American, cooked	no. 80 — Winter 2009
Cheddar, North American	no. 39 — Summer 1996
Cheese
Castelmagno	no. 56 — Winter 2001
Cervelle de Canut	no. 67 — Fall 2004
Cheddar, cloth-bound	no. 75 — Summer 2007
Cheddar, North American	no. 39 — Summer 1996
Cîteaux	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Époisses	no. 59 — Fall 2001
formaggio di fossa	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Gruyère de Comté	no. 70 — Fall 2005
Jasper Hill	no. 66 — Summer 2004
mozzarella di bufala	no. 22 — Spring 1992
Munster	no. 37 — Winter 1995
Parmigiano Reggiano	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Pérail	no. 43 — Summer 1997
Provençal ewe’s-milk, goat's milk	no. 27 — Summer 1993
ricotta, Apulia	no. 35 — Winter 1995
ricotta, Sicily	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Roquefort	no. 43 — Summer 1997
tourteau fromagé	no. 40 — Fall 1996
Chianti	no. 41 — Winter 1996
Chicken, General Tso’s	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Chicken, roast	no. 70 — Winter 2005
Chocolate	no. 36 — Fall 1995
Choucroute	no. 37 — Winter 1996
Cider vinegar	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Cîteaux (cheese)	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Clams, Block Island	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Coffee
roasting	no. 44 — Fall 1998
roasting at home	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Technivorm coffeemaker	no. 78 — Summer 2008
United States	no. 20 — Fall 1991
Cognac	no. 40 — Fall 1996
Cookbooks, a personal selection (E.B.)	no. 79 — Fall 2008
Coulée de Serrant	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Crab, Maryland	no. 23 — Summer 1992
Croissants	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Culatella di Zibello	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Currants, black	no. 80 — Winter 2009
Darjeeling
1, A Snapshot (Introduction)	no. 54 — Summer 2000
2, To Brew Darjeeling Tea	no. 56 — Winter 2001
3, The Source of the Fragrance	no. 58 — Summer 2001
4, Plucking and the Factory	no. 59 — Fall 2001
5, Roundup of Essentials	no. 64 — Summer 2003
David, Elizabeth	no. 64 — Summer 2003
Dry-aged steak	no. 47 — Summer 1998
Duck, wild (how diet influences flavor)	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Eggs, hard-cooked	no. 70 — Winter 2005
Egypt, Melohkia	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Emilia Romagna	no. 54 — Summer 2000
England	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Époisses (cheese)	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Equipment
American redware (earthenware)	no. 59 — Fall 2001
kitchen scale	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
Technivorm coffeemaker	no. 77 — Spring 2008
wooden spoons	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Escoffier, Georges Auguste	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Farinata	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Fish
chowder	no. 69 — Summer 2005
farming	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Greek cured roe	no. 78 — Summer 2008
shad	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Venice	no. 50 — Spring 1999
Focaccia col formaggio	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Foie Gras
dilemma of	no. 68 — Winter 2004
southwest France	no. 48 — Fall 1998
Formaggio di fossa (cheese)	no. 54 — Summer 2000
France
Alsace (Haut-Rhin)	no. 37 — Winter 1996
Beaujolais	no. 67 — Fall 2004
Burgundy	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Cognac (region)	no. 40 — Fall 1996
Franche-Comté	no. 70 — Fall 2005
Loire Valley	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Lyon	no. 67 — Fall 2004
Paris	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Paris, new bistros	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Paris, Part I	no. 45 — Winter 1998
Paris, Part II	no. 46 — Spring 1998
Provence	no. 55 — Fall 2000
Quercy lamb	no. 75 — Summer 2007
Sauternes	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Southwest (Gascony)	no. 48 — Fall 1998
Friuli (wine)	no. 28 — Fall 1993
Fruit
black currants	no. 80 — Winter 2009
lingonberries	no. 83 — Wnter 2010
medlar	no. 79 — Fall 2008
tropical, in Homestead, Florida	no. 70 — Winter 2005
Galilee, Israel, Eric Komarovsky	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Game birds, farm-raised	no. 21 — Winter 1992
Garlic	no. 72 — Summer 2006
Grappa	no. 56 — Winter 2001
Gray, Patience	no. 69 — Summer 2005
Grits	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Gruyère de Comté	no. 70 — Fall 2005
Guanciale	no. 63 — Winter 2003
Gumbo, Cajun	no. 34 — Spring 1995
Ham
culatello	no. 54 — Summer 2000
parsleyed (jambon persillé)	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Tennessee	no. 80 — Winter 2009
Honey
in general	no. 21 — Winter 1992
acacia	no. 62 — Fall 2002
buckwheat	no. 80 — Winter 2009
sourwood, gallberry, and tupelo	no. 75 — Summer 2007
thyme, Catskills	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Israel, Erez Komarovsky	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Italy
Apulia	no. 35 — Summer 1995
Apulia	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Basilicata	no. 78 — Summer 2008
bread, unsalted	no. 70 — Spring 2006
Emilia Romagna	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Friuli	no. 28 — Fall 1993
Liguria	no. 52 — Fall 1999
local markets	no. 70 — Winter 2005
Naples	no. 22 — Spring 1992
Naples	no. 82 — fall 2009
northern Italian Restaurants	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Piedmont	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Piedmont, southern, Part 1	no. 56 — Winter 2001
Piedmont, southern, Part 2	no. 58 — Summer 2001
Sicily	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Tuscany	no. 41 — Winter 1997
Tuscany, lardo di Colonnata	no. 75 — Winter 2007
Venice	no. 50 — Winter 1999
Jambon persillé	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Jasper Hill Farm (cheese)	no. 66 — Summer 2004
Knives
high-carbon Nogent	no. 76 — Winter 2008
Japanese and Western	no. 65 — Winter 2004
materials, design, sharpening	no. 47 — Summer 1998
Komarovsky, Erez	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Korea, buckwheat noodles	no. 60 — Spring 2002
Lamb
Vermont	no. 26 — Spring 1993
Maine island	no. 77 — Spring 2008
Pennsylvania, Jamison	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Quercy	no. 75 — Summer 2007
Lardo di Colonnata	no. 75 — Summer 2007
Lemon curd	no. 57 — Spring 2001
Lettuce	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Liguria
basil	no. 66 — Summer 2004
torta salata	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Lingonberries	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Loire, wines (Bourgueil, Sancerre, Vouvray)	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Louisiana, Cajun food	no. 34 — Spring 1995
Mâche (corn salad)	no. 80 — Winter 2009
Maine
coast	no. 31 — Summer 1994
fish chowder	no. 69 — Summer 2005
island lamb	no. 77 — Spring 2008
Marsala (wine)	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Maryland, Crab	no. 23 — Summer 1992
Maury (wine)	no. 44 — Fall 1997
Mead	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
Meatballs (albondigas)	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Medlar	no. 79 — Fall 2008
Melokhia (Egypt)	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Mexico
chapulines (crickets, grasshoppers, and locusts)	no. 82 — Fall 2009
vanilla	no. 72 — Summer 2006
Millefeuille (Napoleon)	no. 63 — Winter 2003
Montreal, Quebec	no. 69 — Summer 2005
Mortadella	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Mozzarella di bufala	no. 22 — Spring 1992
Munster (cheese)	no. 37 — Winter 1995
Mushrooms
porchini, Tuscany	no. 83 — Winter 2010
shiitake	no. 51 — Summer 1999
wild, United States	no. 24 — Fall 1992
Mussels, West Coast (US)	no. 79 — Fall 2008
Naples
pizza	no. 22 — Spring 1992
street food	no. 82 — Fall 2009
New York
food shopping	no. 68 — Winter 2005
restaurants	no. 66 — Winter 2004
Nuts
wild pecans	no. 52 — Fall 1999
shagbark hickory	no. 68 — Winter 2005
Oil, argan	no. 77 — Spring 2008
Olive oil
Apulia	no. 35 — Summer 1995
California	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
California (Sonoma County)	no. 49 — Winter 1999
Catalonia	no. 38 — Spring 1996
Catalonia (Arbequina)	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Lake Garda	no. 33 — Winter 1995
Provence (Les Baux)	no. 55 — Fall 2000
Tuscany	no. 41 — Winter 1997
Olney, Richard	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Oysters
Olympia	no. 71 — Spring 2006
Tomales Bay	no. 49 — Winter 1999
Pain au levain	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Pain d’épices de Dijon	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Palermo	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Palm honey (Canary Islands)	no. 77 — Spring 2008
Paris	no. 60 — Winter 2002
and French Food, Part I	no. 45 — Winter 1998
and French Food, Part II	no. 46 — Spring 1998
new bistros	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Paris-Brest (pastry)	no. 63 — Winter 2003
Parmigiano Reggiano	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Pastry
baklava	no. 59 — Fall 2001
cannoli	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Cornish saffron cake	no. 61 — Spring 2002
flaky pie crust	no. 70 — Winter 2005
three French pastries	no. 63 — Winter 2003
Paximadia (Cretan twice-baked bread)	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Pecans, wild	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Peppers, red bell	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Pérail (cheese)	no. 43 — Summer 1997
Phyllo, Crete	no. 56 — Winter 2001
Piedmont (Italy)
beef	no. 83 — Fall 2010
southern, Part I	no. 56 — Winter 2001
southern, Part II	no. 58 — Summer 2001
Piper, Odessa	no. 68 — Winter 2005
Pizza
Naples	no. 22 — Spring 1992
New Haven and Vermont	no. 81 — Summer 2009
Plum pudding	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Polenta	no. 58 — Summer 2001
Porcini hunting, Tuscany	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Pork
guanciale	no. 63 — Winter 2003
lardo di Colonnata	no. 75 — Summer 2007
the lost taste of	no. 51 — Summer 1999
the state of	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Pots, earthenware
diable charentais	no. 40 — Fall 1996
Maine bean	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Tuscan bean	no. 41 — Winter 1997
Poultry,
duck, wild	no. 84 — Spring 2010
pastured	no. 55 — Fall 2000
Provence
cheeses	no. 27 — Summer 1993
cooking, wine, olive oil	no. 55 — Fall 2000
Pruneaux d’agen	no. 76 — Winter 2008
Prunes, Agen, compared with California	no. 76 — Winter 2008
Rabbit	no. 76 — Winter 2008
Ragù	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Restaurants	no. 25 — Winter 1993
Burgundy (Le Grand Couvert)	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Chicago (L2O)	no. 81 — Summer 2009
critics	no. 26 — Spring 1993
Dublin (Chapter One)	no. 83 — Winter 2010
New Haven (Sally's Apizza)	no. 81 — Summer 2009
New York City	no. 66 — Summer 2004
northern Italy	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Paris	no. 46 — Spring 1998
Paris	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Paris bistros	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Naples, street food	no. 82 — Fall 2009
New Orleans (Casamento's)	no. 84 — Spring 2010
San Francisco Bay area	no. 83 — Winter 2010
Tokyo	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Tuscany (Antico Colle)	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Vermont (Parker Pie)	no. 81 — Summer 2009
"What is a good restaurant?"	no. 25 — Winter 1993
wine lists	no. 26 — Spring 1993
Wisconsin (L’Etoile)	no. 68 — Winter 2005
Rice,Catalan	no. 38 — Spring 1996
Ricotta
Apulia	no. 35 — Winter 1995
Sicily	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Roquefort	no. 43 — Summer 1997
Saffron	no. 79 — Fall 2008
Salmon, hot-smoked, wild Alaska	no. 61 — Spring 2002
Salt, Île de Ré	no. 40 — Fall 1996
Saltpeter	no. 81 — Summer 2009
Sancerre (wine)	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Sauerkraut
Alsace	no. 37 — Winter 1996
Vermont	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Sausage, andouillette de Troyes	no. 78 — Summer 2008
Sauternes	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Sauvignon, in Sauternes	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Scale, kitchen	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
Science, perfect hard-cooked egg, roast chicken, and flaky pie crust	no. 70 — Winter 2005
Sémillon, in Sauternes	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Shad	no. 84 — Sprng 2010
Sicily	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Snails, Charentes	no. 40 — Fall 1996
Sonoma County (California)	no. 49 — Winter 1999
Sorghum	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Spain, Catalonia	no. 38 — Spring 1996
Steak, dry-aged	no. 47 — Summer 1998
Sugar, brown, from Okinawa	no. 79 — Fall 2008
Tarte au citron (lemon tart)	no. 63 — Winter 2003
Tea
China (La Maison des Trois Thés)	no. 60 — Winter 2002
Darjeeling 1: Introduction	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Darjeeling 2: To Brew	no. 56 — Winter 2001
Darjeeling 3: The Source of the Fragrance	no. 58 — Summer 2001
Darjeeling 4: Plucking and the Factory	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Darjeeling 5: The Roundup of Darjeeling Essentials	no. 64 — Summer 2003
Terroir	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Tokyo restaurants	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Torta salata (Liguria)	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Truffle
white and black	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
oil, a problem with?	no. 52 — Fall 1999
Turkey, baklava	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Tuscany	no. 41 — Winter 1997
United States
Chesapeake Bay	no. 23 — Summer 1992
cloth-bound cheddar	no. 75 — Summer 2007
Iowa (pork)	no. 51 — Summer 1999
Iowa (pork)	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Maine coast	no. 31 — Summer 1994
New York City food shopping	no. 68 — Winter 2005
Sonoma County	no. 49 — Winter 1999
veal	no. 64 — Summer 2003
Wisconsin	no. 68 — Winter 2005
Vanilla, Mexico	no. 72 — Summer 2006
Vegetables, growing the best	no. 42 — Summer 1998
Venice	no. 50 — Spring 1999
Vinegar
balsamic	no. 54 — Summer 2000
cider	no. 65 — Winter 2004
red-wine	no. 30 — Spring 1994
red-wine	no. 80 — Winter 2009
red-wine, making	no. 68 — Winter 2005
Vin jaune	no. 72 — Summer 2006
Vin santo, Tuscany	no. 41 — Winter 1997
Vouvray (wine)	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Wasabi	no. 75 — Summer 2007
Wild plants, foraging for	no. 84 — Spring 2010
Wild rice	no. 59 — Fall 2001
Wine
Aglianico	no. 76 — Winter 2008
Alsace	no. 37 — Winter 1996
Anjou, Part I (Coulée de Serrant)	no. 62 — Fall 2002
Anjou, Part II (wines other than Coulée de Serrant)	no. 63 — Winter 2003
Apulia	no. 35 — Summer 1995
Banyuls	no. 44 — Fall 1997
Barbaresco	no. 58 — Summer 2001
Barolo	no. 58 — Summer 2001
Beaujolais	no. 67 — Fall 2004
Bordeaux, St. Julien (Jaugaret): review	no. 82 — Winter 2009
Bourgogne Vézelay (La Châtelaine, Cadette): review	no. 80 — Winter 2009
Bourgueil	no. 32 — Fall 1994
California (Wylie-Fernaughty Syrah,
Edmunds St. John: review	no. 83 — Winter 2009
California Sauvignon Blanc	no. 49 — Winter 1999
Chablis	no. 81 — Summer 2009
Chablis, further thoughts	no. 82 — Fall 2009
Champagne	no. 48 — Fall 1998
Chateau Musar: review	no. 77 — Winter 2008
Chianti	no. 41 — Fall 1997
Emilia	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Friuli	no. 28 — Fall 1993
Lambrusco	no. 54 — Summer 2000
Lebanon (Chateau Musar): review	no. 77 — Winter 2008
Loire: Bourgueil, Sancerre, Vouvray	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Loire (Cuvée Côt, Clos Roche Blanche): review	no. 79 — Fall 2008
Loire, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Les Malgagnes,
Yannick Amirault): review	no. 78 — Spring 2008
Marsala	no. 65 — Winter 2004
Maury	no. 44 — Spring 2006
Mosel Riesling	no. 71 — Fall 1998
Muscat (Alsace)	no. 37 — Winter 1995
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise (Durban)	no. 55 — Fall 2000
Muscadet (Le Fief de Breil, Louvetrie): review	no. 81 — Summer 2009
Paso Robles (California)	no. 67 — Fall 2004
Provence	no. 55 — Fall 2000
"The Revolution in Wine is Not That Simple"	no. 69 — Summer 2005
Riesling (Mosel)	no. 71 — Spring 2006
Romagna	no. 54 — Summer 2000
St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Les Malgagnes,
Yannick Amirault): review	no. 78 — Spring 2008
Sancerre	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Sauternes	no. 53 — Spring 2000
Sonoma County	no. 49 — Winter 1999
Vin Jaune	no. 72 — Summer 2006
Vinovation	no. 73+74 — Winter 2006
Vin santo (Tuscany)	no. 41 — Winter 1997
Vouvray	no. 32 — Fall 1994
Wine lists, restaurant	no. 26 — Spring 1993
Wisconsin	no. 68 — Winter 2005

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