Recipe Index

Subject Index

Beef
albondigas de prasa kon muez
(leek meatballs with walnuts)	English Food	no. 61	page 31
beef with roasted eggplant	New Paris Bistros	no. 82	page 16
bollito misto	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 12
boeuf miroton	What Is French Food? I	no. 45	page 18
brasato al barolo	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 14
carne cruda al coltello	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 15
carbonade à la gueuze	Belgian Beer	no. 57	page 24
figà a la venexiana (calf’s liver)	Venice	no. 50	page 20
flank steak, marinated	Dry-Aged Steak	no. 47	page 16
gulyás (goulash)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 34
la grillade des mariniers du Rhône	Dark Chocolate	no. 36	page 14
massaman curry	Bangkok's Shophouses	no. 85	page12
polpette di carne cruda o cotta (meatballs)	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 31
ribs, roasting	Roast Beef	no. 5	page 5
roast	Roast Beef	no. 5	pp 1-4
steak au poivre	Black Pepper	no. 10	page 11
steak au poivre	Dry-Aged Steak	no. 47	page 16
stew, oxtail (with oxtail soup)	Pot on the Fire	no. 13	page 11

Bread
basic loaf
from commercial yeast	Fundamental Loaf	no. 18	page 10
from natural leaven	Fundamental Loaf	no. 18	page 11
blini (pancakes)	Caviar; Banyuls, Maury; Coffee	no. 44	page 18
brioche
mousseline	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
ordinary	Brioche	no. 4	page 3
saffron	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
saffron and raisin	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
corn cakes	Stone-Grinding	no. 6	page 8
country (pain de ménage)	Fundamental Loaf	no. 1	page 6
farinata	Northern Italian Restaurants	no. 52	page 20
focaccia col formaggio di Recco	Northern Italian Restaurants	no. 52	page 20
Gorgonzola cake, savory	Brioche	no. 4	page 3
minimum-kneading white loaf,
not too different from baguette	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 52
muffins, cornmeal (Mary Randolph)	Stone-Grinding	no. 6	page 8
natural leaven	Fundamental Loaf	no. 18	page 11
natural leaven	White Loaf	no. 29	page 13
pain au levain	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 26
pain rustique (after Calvel and MacGuire)	What Is French Food? I	no. 45	page 18
pizza	Pizza in Naples	no. 22	page 12
rye, from a non-sour leaven	Rhode Island Rye	no. 10	page 11
schiacciata	Tuscany	no. 41	page 16
sweet, two variations	Fundamental Loaf	no. 18	page 11
walnut	Apples	no. 12	page 14
white
from commercial yeast	White Loaf	no. 29	page 12
from natural leaven	White Loaf	no. 29	page 13
from pâte fermentée	White loaf	no. 29	page 14

Cake
angel food, with chocolate sauce	Eggs	no. 15	page 12
Cornish saffron cake	English Food	no. 61	page 23
hazelnut honey cake	Cloth-Bound Cheddar	no. 75	page 32
lemon, with olive oil	Olive Oil	no. 33	page 13
pound, cardamom-tangerine	Favorite Cake	no. 6	page 2
torta di nocciole (hazelnut cake)	Southern Piedmont I	no. 56	page 25
walnut torte	Walnuts	no. 16	page 12

Charcuterie
cervelas lyonnais	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 24
headcheese	American Charcuterie	no. 20	page 20
jambon à la crème	Chablis	no. 81	page 25
jambon persillé	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 22
pâté de campagne	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 14
rillauds d’Anjou	Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo	no. 62	page 30
rillettes de Tours	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 18
saucisse de Toulouse	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 22
sausage
breakfast	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
cheese and parsley	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
for raw oysters	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 30
garlic	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
with pistachios	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
terrine, with veal, spinach, and ham	Aged Country Ham	no. 17	page 12

Cheese and Eggs
cervelle de canut, or claqueret
(fresh cheese with fresh herbs)	Beaujolais	no. 67	page 29
cheese, fresh	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 14
cheese fritters	Cheddar	no. 39	page 14
crémets d’Anjou	Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo	no. 62	page 30
eggs, scrambled, with
smoked sturgeon and onions	New York Restaurants	no. 66	page 28
fondue franche-comtoise	Comté	no. 70	page 18
fresh cheese	Fresh Cheese	no. 2	page 3
making your own	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 14
with fresh herbs	Beaujolais	no. 67	page 29
gougère	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 20
œufs en meurette	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 21
omelette, crab, from Raan Jay Fai	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 85	page 11
potato and pepper frittata	Eggs	no. 15	page 12
soufflé, cheese	Cheddar	no. 39	page 14
chocolate	Dark Chocolate	no. 36	page 13
napolitain	Soufflé Napolitain	no. 5	page 2
with herbs and goat cheese	American Cheeses	no. 8	page 9
Welsh rabbit	Cheddar	no. 39	page 15

Chicken
coq au vin	What Is French Food? II	no. 46	page 22
fricassée de poulet angevine	Pâtisserie en Boutique	no. 63	page 16
fricassée de poulet au vinaigre de
framboise (Charles Barrier)	Red-Wine Vinegar	no. 30	page 11
gâteau de foies de volaille
(chicken liver flan or custard)	Beaujolais	no. 67	page 29
General Tso’s Chicken
crusty American version	The Andouillettes of Troyes	no. 78	page 36
Uncle Tai’s version	The Andouillettes of Troyes	no. 78	page 38
gumbo, sassafras and oyster	Gumbo	no. 34	page 6
legs, braised, in red wine	Late Winter Meal	no. 2	page 8
mousse de foies (duck or chicken liver mousse)	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 17
polpette di carne cruda o cotta (meatballs)	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 31
poulet au vin jaune et aux morilles	Vin Jaune and other Traditional
	Wines of the Jura	no. 72	page 30
roasted, in butter, with Sauternes sauce	Sauternes	no. 53	page 21
sautéed, with tomatoes and olives	Provence	no. 55	page 25
smoky eggplant salad from Chote Chitr	Bangkok's Shophouses	no. 85	page 11

Chocolate
brioche tart	September Menu	no. 4	page 8
mousse	Dark Chocolate	no. 36	page 13
petits pots de crème au chocolat	Custard	no. 1	page 3
pots de chocolat	Dark Chocolate	no. 36	page 12
soufflé	Dark Chocolate	no. 36	page 13
tart	Caviar; Banyuls, Maury; Coffee	no. 44	page 19
truffles	Dark Chocolate	no. 36	page 12

Condiments
apricot condiment for wild boar or pork	Wild Boar;	no. 12	page 14
caponata	Fundamental Loaf	no. 18	page 12
mostarda di frutta	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 14
Roquefort butter for sautéed or grilled
veal or beef	Roquefort	no. 43	page 15
vinegar
wine	Red-Wine Vinegar	no. 30	page 9
raspberry	Red-Wine Vinegar	no. 30	page 11

Custard
almond raspberry, with raspberry whipped cream	Custard	no. 1	page 3
crème caramel renversée	Custard	no. 1	page 3
fig, tart, with thyme	American Cheeses	no. 8	page 9
flan, lemon honey	Cloth-Bound Cheddar	no. 75	page 31
lemon curd	Eggs	no. 15	page 12
lemon curd (with lemon curd tart)	Belgian Beer	no. 57	page 25
making a caramel for	Custard	no. 1	page 3
orange	Custard	no. 2	page 6
inverted	Custard	no. 1	page 3
saffron, with caramel	Catalonia	no. 38	page 18
vanilla, baked pears in	Black Pepper	no. 10	page 11

Duck
braised, with sour cherries	Caviar; Banyuls, Maury; Coffee	no. 44	page 18
caillettes de colvert	New Paris Bistros	no. 82	page 15
sausage	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7

Fish
chowder, Down East fish	Montreal Restaurants	no. 69	page 31
cod with tomato, hyssop, and tarragon	To Bake a Fish	no. 7	page 2
mackerel
escabetx de verats	Catalonia	no. 38	page 18
marinated with sage	To Bake a Fish	no. 7	page 2
redfish, stuffed	To Bake a Fish	no. 7	page 2
salmon
soufflé	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 30
with cream, Sauternes, and raisins	Atlantic Salmon	no. 16	page 12
with leeks and saffron sauce	September Menu	no. 4	page 8
salt cod cakes	Hill Country Food	no. 9	page 6
sardines
fresh, in sweet-and-sour sauce	Catalonia	no. 38	page 18
sardele in saor	Venice	no. 50	page 19
tuna, marinated, in olive oil	Olive oil	no. 33	page 12

Game
guinea fowl with green peppercorns	Game Birds	no 21	page 15
partridges with cabbages (perdix aux choux)	Game Birds	no 21	page 14
squab with olives	Game Birds	no 21	page 15
wild boar with chestnuts (cinghiale colle castagne)	Southern Piedmont I	no. 56	page 24

Lamb
albondigas de prasa kon muez
(leek meatballs with walnuts)	English Food	no. 61	page 31
lamb heart confit	Island Lamb	no. 77	page 13
lamb loin chops, grilled	Island Lamb	no. 77	page 13
lamb shoulder, smoked	Island Lamb	no. 77	page 14
olive harvest	Sonoma County	no. 49	page 22
sausage	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
spring, stew (navarin)	Lamb	no. 26	page 15

Miscellaneous, Savory
capers in oil	Olive Oil	no. 33	page 12
choucroute garnie	Alsace	no. 37	page 18
coffee, roasting at home	Coffee	no. 20	page 12
escargots à la bourguignonne	Chablis	no. 81	page 26
falafel	New York Restaurants	no. 66	page 28
garlic bulbs, whole, baked	Wild Boar	no. 12	page 14
peperoni ripieni con tonno (bell
peppers stuffed with tuna)	Southern Piedmont I	no. 56	page 24
pici (homemade pasta)	Tuscany	no. 41	page 16
prunes in red wine for Roquefort	Roquefort	no. 43	page 15
puccia (polenta with cabbage and pork)	Southern Piedmont II	no. 58	page 29
rillauds d’Anjou	Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo	no. 62	page 30
roux	Gumbo	no. 34	page 5
sweet-and-sour shallots for roast pork	Pork	no. 51	page 21
torta di bietole (chard tart)	Sicily	no. 65	page 29
torta pasqualina (chard tart with eggs)	Sicily	no. 65	page 30
Yorkshire pudding	Roast beef	no. 5	page 5

Miscellaneous, Sweet
cherries in Barolo wine	Southern Piedmont II	no. 58	page 29
crémets d’Anjou	Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo	no. 62	page 30
ice
mocha	Coffee	no. 20	page 12
Tahitian vanilla	Vanilla	no. 3	page 3
ice cream, honey	Cloth-Bound Cheddar	no. 75	page 32
pears
baked, in vanilla custard	Black Pepper	no. 10	page 11
in wine with vanilla	Vanilla	no. 13	page 12
poached, in red wine	Sauternes	no. 53	page 21
rhubarb, stewed with honey	Cloth-Bound Cheddar	no. 75	page 31
rote grütze (red berry porridge)	Rote Grütze	no. 9	page 12
tourteau fromagé (fresh goat’s- or cow’s-milk
cheese pastry)	Cognac	no. 40	page 17
zabaione	Sicily	no. 65	page 26

Pasta
orecchiette e cime de rape	The Andouillettes of Troyes	no. 78	page 28
pesto trapanese	Sicily	no. 65	page 24
pici	Tuscany	no. 41	page 16
ragù (for tagliatelle, etc.)	Emilia Romagna	no. 54	page 25
salsa di noci (walnut sauce for pasta)	Walnuts	no. 16	page 12
trahana, sour (xinohondros)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 30
xinohondros (sour trahana)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 30

Pastry
baklava	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 25
brioche
mousseline	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
ordinary	Brioche	no. 4	page 3
saffron	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
saffron and raisin	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
croissants	Paris (Again)	no. 60	page 30
gougère	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 20

Pork
aged country ham, to poach, toast, and carve	Aged Country Ham	no. 17	page 12
braised
with lamb and beef (baeckeoffe)	Alsace	no. 37	page 19
with vinegar	New York Food Shopping	no. 68	page 22
cervelas lyonnais	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 24
headcheese	American Charcuterie	no. 20	page 20
jambon à la crème, jambon au Chablis	Chablis	no. 81	page 25
jambon persillé	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 22
massaman curry	Bangkok's Shophouses	no. 85	page 12
noisettes de porc aux pruneaux	The State of Pork	no. 84	page 19
pâté de campagne	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 14
ragù	Emilia Romagna	no. 54	page 25
rillettes de Tours	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 18
rillauds d’Anjou	Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo	no. 62	page 30
roasting, brine for	Pork	no. 51	page 21
saucisse de Toulouse	American Charcuterie	no. 80	page 22
sausage
breakfast	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
cheese and parsley	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
for raw oysters	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 30
garlic	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
with pistachios	Fresh Sausage	no. 3	page 7
terrine, with veal, spinach, and ham	Aged Country Ham	no. 17	page 12

Rabbit
conill amb prunes i pinyons (rabbit with prunes
and pine kernels	Aglianico in Basilicata	no. 76	page 35
lapin à la bourguignonne (rabbit in red wine)	Aglianico in Basilicata	no. 76	page 34
lapin à la crème (rabbit in white wine
with cream)	Aglianico in Basilicata	no. 76	page 33
lapin à la kriek (rabbit in beer)	Belgian Beer	no. 57	page 24
lapin à la moutarde (rabbit with mustard,	Aglianico in Basilicata	no. 76	page 36
breadcrumbed and grilled)
stewed (melokhia)	Emilia Romagna	no. 54	page 31

Salad
carrot, with walnut dressing	Sweet Orange Carrot	no. 11	page 10
insalata di arance (orange salad)	Sicily	no. 65	page 26
lettuce and watercress	September Menu	no. 4	page 8
lettuce with Roquefort	Roquefort	no. 43	page 15
salade frisée	Fundamental Loaf	no. 18	page 12
with herbs	American Cheeses	no. 8	page 9

Sauces
anchoyade (anchovy sauce)	Provence	no. 55	page 25
bagnèt ross (red sauce)	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 13
bagnèt verd (parsley sauce)	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 13
beurre blanc	Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo	no. 62	page 30
fennel	English Food	no. 61	page 22
garlic, for roast lamb or mutton	Lamb	no. 26	page 5
garlic, wine, rosemary, for roast pork	Pork	no. 51	page 22
horseradish and mustard	Roast Beef	no. 5	page 6
Kelly’s sauce piquante	English Food	no. 61	page22
meurette (red-wine-and-onion sauce)	Burgundy I	no. 59	page 21
pesto trapanese	Sicily	no. 65	page 24
porcini ragù	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 37
red wine	Bangkok's Shophouses	no. 85	page 35
salsa al rafano (horseradish sauce)	Piedmont Beef	no. 83	page 13
salsa di noci (walnut sauce for pasta)	Walnuts	no. 16	page 12
sauce maltaise (for asparagus)	Olympia Oysters	no. 71	page 20
sauce mousseline (for asparagus)	Market Garden	no. 42	page 18
sauce piquante	New York Food Shopping	no. 68	page 23
veal glaze	Bangkok's Shophouses	no. 85	page 34

Seafood
crab cakes	Maryland Crab	no. 23	page 12
crab omelette from Raan Jay Fai	Bangkok's Shophouses	no. 85	page 11
fish mousseline forcemeat	Chablis	no. 81	page 29
fish pâté	Chablis	no. 81	page 30
mussels
cozze con le patate (oven-bake of mussels and potatoes)	The Andouillette of Troyes	no. 78	page 30
deep-fried	Mussels	no. 14	page 12
in the style of bouillabaisse	Cookbooks: a personal selection	no. 79	page 26
moules à la marinière	Mussels	no. 14	page 11
moules à la marinière	Cookbooks: a personal selection	no. 79	page 23
la mouclade	Cognac	no. 40	page 17
la mouclade and a variation	Cookbooks: a personal selection	no. 79	page 24
salad	Cookbooks: a personal selection	no. 79	page 26
soup	Mussels	no. 14	page 12
potage Billy By	Cookbooks: a personal selection	no. 79	page 25
quenelles	Chablis	no. 81	page 30
seafood gumbo	Gumbo	no. 34	page 6
sturgeon, smoked, with scrambled eggs	New York Restaurants	no. 66	page 28
tonno o pesce spada alla stemperata (tuna or
swordfish with olives, celery,
garlic, vinegar, and mint)	Sicily	no. 65	page 24

Soup and Stock
asparagus	Market Garden	no. 42	page 18
bread and zucchini, from Asti	Southern Piedmont II	no. 58	page 29
cabbage soup, spring, with walnut oil	The State of Pork	no. 84	page 20
carrot	What Is French Food? II	no. 46	page 22
cool	Sweet Orange Carrot	no. 11	page 10
with tomato	Sweet Orange Carrot	no. 11	page 10
cherry soup	Comté	no. 70	page 18
chestnut soup	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 29
chowder, Down East fish	Montreal Restaurants	no. 69	page 31
crab (three soups), Mrs. Howard’s	Maryland Crab	no. 23	page 12
goulash (gulyás)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 34
gulyás (goulash)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 34
haferflockensuppe (toasted oatmeal soup)	New Paris Bistros	no. 82	page 15
mussel, with saffron, basil, tomato, and cream	Mussels	no. 14	page 12
onion (soupe à l’oignon)	What Is French Food? I	no. 45	page 18
oxtail (including oxtail stew)	Pot on the Fire	no. 13	page 11
potage Billy By	Cookbooks: a personal selection	no. 79	page 25
potée jurasienne	Vin Jaune and other Traditional
	Wines of the Jura	no. 72	page 29
purée (soup) of green peas	Paris (Again)	no. 60	page 31
red wine (soupe à la bourguignonne)	Northern Italy	no. 52	page 21
soupe aux cerises	Comté	no. 70	page 18
squash soup with vin jaune	Vin Jaune and other Traditional
	Wines of the Jura	no. 72	page 29
stock, brown	Pot on the Fire	no. 13	page 10
toasted oatmeal soup (haferflockensuppe)	New Paris Bistros	no. 82	page 15
tomato, clear	September Menu	no. 4	page 8
trahana stew (xinohondros stifado	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 31
me kremmydakia)
xinohondros stifado me kremmydakia
(trahana stew)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 31

Tarts and Pies
almond, with prunes and apricots	Late Winter Meal	no. 2	page 8
coffee	Olympia Oysters	no. 71	page 22
flan, lemon honey	Cloth-Bound Cheddar	no. 75	page 31
lemon curd	Belgian Beer	no. 57	page 25
pear	Sauternes	no. 53	page 21
plum	Brioche	no. 4	page 4
unsweetened apple pie, with maple sauce	Hill Country Food	no. 9	page 7

Veal
polpette di carne cruda o cotta (meatballs)	20th Anniversary	no. 73 + 74	page 31
rognons de veau à la moutarde
(sautéeed veal kidneys with mustard)	Beaujolais	no. 67	page 30
saltimbocca	Good Veal	no. 64	page 18
uccelletti scappati (veal birds)	Good Veal	no. 64	page 19
veal scallopini with wine	Good Veal	no. 64	page 18
vitello tonnato	Good Veal	no. 64	page 19

Vegetables
artichoke bottoms, onion-filled	Dry-Aged Steak	no. 47	page 15
asparagus	Market Garden	no. 42	page 18
cabbage, buttered, with potato	Good Veal	no. 64	page 20
cabbage pudding	Champagne	no. 48	page 22
chouée (buttered cabbage with potato)	Good Veal	no. 64	page 20
compoté de choux rouge	New Paris Bistros	no. 82	page 15
eggplant and tomato	Pork	no. 51	page 21
eggplant with trahana or bulgur
(melitzanes me xinohondro i blgouri	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 31
erbazzone (savory pie of greens)	Emilia Romagna	no. 54	page 25
far au choux (cabbage pudding)	Champagne	no. 48	page 22
fave e cicoria (fava purée and chicory)	The Andouillettes of Troyes	no. 78	page 24
gratin d’épinards (creamed spinach)	Pâtisserie en Boutique	no. 63	page 15
greens, savory pie of	Emilia Romagna	no. 54	page 25
lecsó (stewed peppers)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 34
melitzanes me xinohondro i blgouri
(eggplant with trahana or bulgur)	Really Good Goat Cheese	no. 86	page 31
onions in agrodolce	New York Food Shopping	no. 68	page 22
orecchiette e cime de rape (ear-shaped pasta with turnip tops)	The Andouillettes of Troyes	no. 78	page 28
peas, green, with lettuce	Paris (Again)	no. 60	pp 30-31
petit pois à la laitue	Paris (Again)	no. 60	pp 30-31
potatoes
cakes	Dry-Aged Steak	no. 47	page 15
gratin	Roast Beef	no. 5	page 6
new, steamed	September Menu	no. 4	page 8
with bay leaves and tomato	Pot on the Fire	no. 13	page 12
root vegetables, lightly glazed	Roast Beef	no. 5	page 6
spinach, creamed	Pâtisserie en Boutique	no. 63	page 15
spinach in sesame dressing	New York Restaurants	no. 66	page 29
turnip gratin	Olympia Oysters	no. 71	page 21
turnip tops with orecchiette pasta	The Andouillette of Troyes	no. 78	page 28
white purée (celeriac and potato)	Roast Beef	no. 5	page 6
winter squash, sweet and sour	Sicily	no. 65	page 24
zucca all’agrodolce
(sweet and sour winter squash)	Sicily	no. 65	page 24
zucchini pudding	Olympia Oysters	no. 71	page 22

Subject Index