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 no. 22 “Pizza in Naples”
— Pizza in the city where pizza originated and remains better than anywhere
else.
 no. 28 “In the Vineyards of
Friuli” — Traditional and French varieties and some important
producers, mostly modern minded.
no. 33 “Olive Oil”
— The especially delicate oil of Lake Garda in northern Italy.
no. 35 “Stone, Sea, and a Dry,
Fertile Soil: Encounters in Apulia” — Fish, vegetables, pasta, wine,
the bread of Altamura (maybe the best in Italy), olive oil, cheeses.
no. 41 “In Tuscany”
— The evolution of Tuscan red wine, vin santo, bread without salt, a pot
shaped like a bottle, olive oil.
no. 50 “Venice”
— The lagoon, fish, vegetables, certain dishes: sardele in saor, risotto di
bruscandoli, fegato alla veneziana.
no. 52 “Restaurants in Northern
Italy” — From alta cucina to the focaccia col formaggio
of Recco.
no. 54 “Emilia Romagna: The
Resurgent Red Cows of Parmigiano Reggiano and Other Stories from the Region Whose Cuisine
Has Always Been Called Italy’s Richest and Best” — The ham culatello,
sapa and real balsamic vinegar, mortadella, the wine of Fattoria Zerbina, a cheese
buried in the earth (formaggio di fossa), the Italian urge to be
“modern.”
no. 56 “Southern Piedmont Part
I: High Mountain Pastures and a Brief Introduction to the Cooking” —
Castelmagno, the great, sometimes blue, mountain cheese.
no. 58 “Southern Piedmont Part
II: The Great Wines of Barolo and Barbaresco” — Including how much
remains of the tradition and why it may matter.
no. 65 “Sicily”
— The freshnesss of the fish, the origins of the cooking, cúscusu in Trapani
and the Arab influence, the Prince of Lampedusa, Palermo, the wine to go with the meal,
the Marsala of Marco de Bartoli, a cannolo.
no. 75 “Cloth-Bound Vermont Cheddar” — “The Most Famous Fatback in the World: Lardo di Colonnata” — The origins of this preserved fat in a village high among the marble quarries of Carrara. (5 pp.).
no. 76 “Aglianico del Vulture” — Aglianico, which may be the best red variety of southern Italy, as made in one of its best locations, with issues of modern versus traditional methods and tastes. |