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no. 83 mailed December 31st.
Editor's Letter
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The Fair of the Fattened Ox in Carrù John Irving
The classic beef from the Piemontese Breed in northern Italy, the annual fair at which the cattle are bought and sold, what makes the beef so good, and an introduction to the cooking. Classic Piedmont Beef Recipes
John Irving
Three essential dishes: Bollito misto (mixed boiled meats) as prepared at Ristorante Moderno in Carrù (with four classic sauces), Brasato al Barolo (beef braised in Barolo) as prepared at Osteria La Torre in Cherasco, and Carne cruda al coltello (hand-chopped raw beef) as prepared at Osteria La Torre. Pain au Levain: The Best Flavor, Acidity, and Texture andWhere They Come From, with a Recipe James MacGuire The definitive description of the bread, including visits to Poilâne and Pain Virgule, the flour and the ideal meeting of sourness and flavor, with a recipe that shows how to achieve the control that produces the best taste. How to Buy Pain au Levain
Edward Behr
Duck Hunt: In Search of California’s Perfect Wild WaterfowlHank Shaw A hunter seeks the best-tasting species and the best places for flavor. Lingonberries
Lee ReichThe great wild Scandanavian berry, with advice on growing it where it can’t be found in the wild. Lost and Found in the Woods: Funghi PorciniNancy Harmon Jenkins A Tuscan perspective on hunting for boletes and on their use, with a recipe for porcini ragù. Why This Bottle, Really?Mannie Berk on the virtues of Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah (Sonoma County) from Edmunds St. John. Notes and ResourcesA modestly priced source for round French bannetons, the linen- lined baskets in which country loaves, including pains au levain, rise. RestaurantsDublin: John McKenna on Chapter One. San Francisco Bay Area: Scott Hocker on Regional Mexican Places. BooksJohn Irving on Maria Pignatelli Ferrantes Puglia: A Culinary Memoir (the new translation of La Cucina della Sicilia orientale). Anya Fernald on Giuseppe Corias Sicily: Culinary Crossroads (the new translation of La Cucina delle Murge). Edward Behr on Michael Steinbergers Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France. |
To order, click here or call 1.800.495.3944 (US and Can) or 1.802.592.3144 (anywhere) or send mail to The Art of Eating, Box 242, Peacham, Vermont 05862 USA.


Editor's Letter