The Fish Pepper of Maryland Sam Hiersteiner
A particular hot pepper is an essential
component of Chesapeake Bay cuisine.
Real Old-Fashioned Blanquette de Veau Jamie Schler
The classic veal dish is at the center of French
Rooted in Verduno: A Glass of Pelaverga Levi Dalton
A little-known Italian wine is a satisfying
New American Chocolate Makers Rebecca Flint Marx
The new wave of small-scale bean to bar makers is
producing some of the finest chocolate ever.
Babas and Savarins James MacGuire
The classic yeast-raised desserts.
A New England Pot of Beans: Yellow Eyes and Marfax
The bean you choose makes all the difference to
traditional baked beans.
Why This Bottle, Really?
Lars Carlberg on Dhroner Hofberg Riesling
Feinherb (Mosel) from A.J. Adam
Katherine Cole on Pommard (Burgundy) from
Notes and Resources
The Feiring Line Edward Behr
The Donabe Rice Cooker Edward Behr
Saigon Georgia Freedman
Lowell, Massachusetts: Dave Cook on Cotes Market
New Orleans: Eric Lolis Elie on Commanders
Palace and Galatoires
Edward Behr on Oretta Zanini De Vitas Popes, Peasants,
Winnie Yang on Andrea Nguyens Asian Tofu
Yukari Sakamoto on Nancy Singleton Hachisus
Japanese Farm Food
Sarah K. Khan on Naomi Duguids Burma
Short List: The Perfect Peach, The Kimchi
Cookbook, Bread, and Sherry, Manzanilla
Cover Fish Out of Water by Mikel Jaso
|The Boqueria, on the Rambla in Barcelona, is one of the worlds great food markets. Its origins go back to the 13th century. When youre there, it feels like the place to be, a center of life. The array of foods is enormous produce, bread, cheeses, fresh meats, ham and sausages, fish, including superb baccalà (which is important in the surrounding region of Catalonia). At several bars, besides coffee, wine, beer, brandy, you can order delicious dishes cooked right there. You know where you are from the food, the people, the building, the entire experience. The market is so big and vital you feel it has a soul.
When Paris lost its Halles, established in that location in 1137, the center of the city was never the same. Over three days in the winter of 1969, the wholesalers moved outside the city to the vast space at Rungis (now the largest market of its kind in the world) and the old market became a park and a dispiriting, partly underground mall (both currently being redeveloped). The city today has 13 covered markets and 69 open-air ones, which typically set up two mornings a week and disappear again while youre at lunch.
New York, with a population more than three and a half times that of Paris, is at a distance with its 54 admirable open-air Greenmarkets. It too has a long history of markets. Going back to the 17th century, some of the citys market buildings were constructed parallel to the shore on piles at the waters edge. Two of them survive, the ones that housed the Fulton Fish Market until 2005, when it moved to Hunts Point in the Bronx (a fish market second in size only to Tokyos Tsukiji). Ever since, the buildings have lain empty. The New Market Building dates from 1939, replacing one erected in 1904. The Old Market Building, also called the Tin Building, dates from 1907. Its the fourth market building on its site; the first was the original fish sellers building of the 1830s.
The main advocate for saving the two buildings and filling them with a great market is itself a market: the New Amsterdam Market, a recent phenomenon, for now held outdoors monthly near the old Fulton Fish Market. Its extraordinary and very current, packed with young producers, purveyors, and customers. It was immediately beloved by New Yorkers, and its exactly what should fill the old buildings.
But the real estate industry is powerful in New York, and theres a danger that the buildings will be swallowed up. The New York City Council has equivocated, seeming to favor a small market, run by a shopping mall developer, that might be no better than a food court. Not the New Amsterdam Market at all. As of this writing, the fate of the buildings is unclear.
A great market sets a neighborhood apart and gives value to the real estate around it, attracting people from all over the city and beyond. A great city needs a great market. And great markets belong in buildings with history and force.
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