Back Issues

 
   The Art of Eating Back Issue Collections:
Bread,  Honey,  Cheese,  French,  Italian,  Wine,  and
The Complete Collection.
  If you need them, the Subject Index and the Recipe Index.
 

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Issue 91 cover no. 91  “The Fish Pepper of Maryland”
  • The Fish Pepper of Maryland  Sam Hiersteiner
  • Real Old-Fashioned Blanquette de Veau  Jamie Schler
  • Rooted in Verduno: A Glass of Pelaverga  Levi Dalton
  • New American Chocolate Makers  Rebecca Flint Marx
  • Babas and Savarins  James MacGuire
  • A New England Pot of Beans: Yellow Eyes and Marfax  
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Lars Carlberg on Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Feinherb
  • (Mosel) from A.J. Adam
  • Katherine Cole on Pommard (Burgundy) from Huber-Verdereau
  • Notes and Resources
  • The Feiring Line  Edward Behr
  • The Donabe Rice Cooker  Edward Behr
  • Six Addresses  Saigon
  • Georgia Freedman
  • Restaurants
  • Lowell, Massachusetts: Dave Cook on Cote’s Market
  • New Orleans: Eric Lolis Elie on Commander’s Palace
  • and Galatoire’s
  • Books
  • Edward Behr on Oretta Zanini De Vita’s Popes, Peasants,
  • and Shepherds
  • Winnie Yang on Andrea Nguyen’s Asian Tofu
  • Yukari Sakamoto on Nancy Singleton Hachisu’s
  • Japanese Farm Food
  • Sarah K. Khan on Naomi Duguid’s Burma
  • Short List: The Perfect Peach, The Kimchi Cookbook,
  • Bread, and Sherry, Manzanilla, & Montilla
 
Issue 90 cover no. 90  “Jean-Pierre Moullé”
  • A Quiet Effect: Jean-Pierre Moullé at Chez Panisse  Justin Bolois
  • The Yarra Valley: Australia’s Next Wine Wave?  Kristine Kowalchuk
  • How to Cook a Lobster  John Grossmann
  • Akara: African Fast Food  John Thorne
  • Improved by the Cold: Parsnips and Brussels Sprouts  Sandy Oliver
  • Aged Eggnog   Holly Jennings
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Joe Appel on Kabaj Rebula (Slovenia)
  • Alfonso Cevola 0n Vecchia Modena Lambrusco di Sorbara
  • from Cleto Chiarli (Emilia)
  • Wine Comment
  • Alessandro Masnaghetti on Matching
  • Notes and Resources
  • Soy Sauce Pot  Edward Behr
  • A Precisionist Tea Kettle  Kevin Gascoyne
  • Six Addresses  Berlin
  • Luisa Weiss
  • Restaurants
  • New York: Mitchell Davis on Rouge Tomate
  • Yunnan, China: Georgia Freedman on Yingjiang-Style
  • Flavor Restaurant and Red Bean Garden
  • Fish Farmstead
  • Books
  • Anthony Boutard on John Evelyn’s Acetaria
  • Mitchell Davis on Jacques Pépin’s Essential Pépin
  • Rachel Laudan on Robert Oliver’s Me’a Kai
  • Short List: The Family Meal, The Art of Fermentation,
  • The Truck Food Cookbook, and The Blue Bottle
  • Craft of Coffee
 
Issue 89 cover no. 89  “The Greek Issue”
  • Mastiha  Diana Farr Louis
  • In Pursuit of the Cheese of the Skin: Shepherd Cheesemaking
  • in Tsakonia  Alexis Marie Adams
  • Olive Oil: Tasting the Differences (Letter from Tuscany)
  • Nancy Harmon Jenkins
  • Weir Fishing for the Last Sardine Cannery in North America
  • Peter Smith
  • Big Oak Casks  Derrick Schneider
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Michael Anthony on 2008 Meditazione (Long Island)
  • from Channing Daughters
  • Franz Scheurer on 2009 Dreadnought (New Zealand)
  • from Man O’ War
  • Notes and Resources
  • Black Fruit: The Traditional Taste of Provençal and
  • Almost All Olive Oil  Edward Behr
  • Muesli  Emily Horton
  • Restaurants
  • Queens: Jamie Feldmar on Tortilleria Nixtamal
  • Books
  • Lisa Abend on Claudia Roden’s The Food of Spain
  • James MacGuire on Frédéric Bau’s Cooking with Chocolate
  • Emily Nunn on Michael Ruhlman’s Ruhlman’s Twenty
  • Neal Rosenthal on Richard A. Jones and Sharon
  • Sweeney-Lynch’s The Beekeeper’s Bible
  • Short List: Ilimpa’chi’, Serious Eats, An Everlasting Meal, and
  • Tuscany.
  • Plus Manousos Daskalogiannis on Curing Olives on Crete
 
Issue 88 cover no. 88  “Central Texas Barbecue”
  • Cooking by Feel: Central Texas Barbecue  Jordan Mackay
  • Caviar  Jeff Cox
  • Two French Cabbage Recipes: Chou farci and Chou rouge
  • au châtaignes  Edward Behr and James MacGuire
  • Raspberries: The Taste of Home-Grown  Lee Reich
  • Quince: The Perfumed Fruit  Melissa Pasanen
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Peter Liem on Fino Inocente (Jerez) from Bodegas Valdespino
  • Jon Bonné on Outis, Etna Rosso (Sicily), from Vini Biondi
  • Notes and Resources
  • The Art of Eating Cookbook: Essential Recipes from
  • the First 25 Years
  • Restaurants
  • New York: Winnie Yang on Kajitsu
  • Oakland: Emily Kaiser Thelin on Camino
  • Books
  • Michelle Dumitriu-Machtoub on Barbara Abdeni Massaadi’s
  • Mouneh: Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry
  • James MacGuire on the Dictionnaire universel du pain
  • Edward Behr on Alice Feiring’s Naked Wine: Letting Grapes
  • Do What Comes Naturally and Jacqueline Friedrich’s
  • Earthly Delights from the Garden of France: Wines
  • of the Loire, Volume I, The Kingdom of Sauvignon
 
Issue 87 cover no. 87  “Considering Dessert”
  • Norman Farm-Made Cider  Charles Neal
  • A Point of View in Pastry: Shuna Fish Lydon  Edward Behr
  • When They’re Black, They’re Done: The Cannelés of Bordeaux
  • Molly Wizenberg
  • Making Baklava in Gaziantep  Diana Farr Louis
  • Biscotti di Prato  Pamela Sheldon Johns
  • Crème Anglaise  Lesley Chesterman
  • Brioche  James MacGuire
  • Where Is Dessert Headed?  Mitchell Davis
  • Asparago Violetto di Albenga  John Irving
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Christy Frank on Nonvintage Brut, Montlouis sur Loire
  • (Touraine), from François Chidaine
  • Francis Poirel on La Passion, Coteaux du Layon (Anjou), from
  • Domaine de Juchepie
  • Notes and Resources
  • Squash seed oils
  • Restaurants
  • San Francisco: Scott Hocker on Sandbox Bakery
  • Books
  • Mitchell Davis on René Redzepi’s Noma: Time and Place
  • in Nordic Cuisine
  • Edward Behr on Rajat Parr’s and Jordan McKay’s Secrets
  • of the Sommeliers
  • John Irving on the new translation of Monica Sartoni Cesari’s
  • Italy Dish by Dish
  • James MacGuire on the Dictionnaire universel du pain
  •  
  
Issue 86 cover no. 86  “Really Good Goat Cheese”
  • Pushing to a Delicate Extreme: The Cheeses of Soyoung Scanlan
  • Edward Behr
  • Making Your Own Fresh Cheese Edward Behr
  • Cooking the Kill Ian Knauer
  • Madeira Is History – Long Live Madeira! Derrick Schneider
  • Trahana, the World’s Oldest Instant Soup Diana Farr Louis
  • The Red Spice: Hungarian Paprika Petra Tanos
  • Market Day in Cholula Deborah Madison
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Eric Asimov on Nonvintage Brut Champagne from José Dhondt
  • Cory Cartwright on Señorío de P. Peciña Rioja Reserva from
  • Bodegas Hermanos Peciña
  • Notes and Resources
  • Black currant jam, Chocovivo chocolate
  • Restaurants
  • Piedmont (Roddino and Cherasco) and Seattle:
  • Winnie Yang on Osteria da Gemma, La Torre, and Spinasse
  • Books
  • Jarrett Wrisley on David Thompson’s Thai Street Food
  • Edward Behr on Harold McGee’s Keys to Good Cooking
  • Short List: Kansha: Celebrating Japan’s Vegan and
  • Vegetarian Traditions, The Southern Foodways Alliance
  • Community Cookbook, and La Cuisine (Françoise Bernard)
  •  
   
no. 85  “Bangkok’s Shophouses”
  • Bangkok’s Shophouses (with three recipes) Jarrett Wrisley
  • The Flavor of Stone: The Wines of Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine
  •  David Lillie
  • A Better Fish Farm (Veta la Palma) Lisa Abend
  • Eels on the Whanganui River Melissa Pasanen
  • Classic French Sauces James MacGuire
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Belinda Chang on Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel)
  • from Christoffel.
  • Levi Dalton on Fiano di Avellino (Campania) from Pietracupa.
  • Notes and Resources
  • The tomato press, Baldwin orchard ladders, and
  • uncompromising cidre de glace (ice cider).
  • Restaurants
  • Philadelphia: Winnie Yang on Hunan
  • Books
  • Shankar Raman on Shawkat Osman’s Khunti Korai:
  • Bangladeshi Cuisine
  • Kevin Gascoyne on Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss’s
  • The Tea Enthusiast’s Handbook
  • Short List: The Country Cooking of Ireland, Forgotten
  • Skills of Cooking, Food Sake Tokyo, and Mastering
  • the Art of Chinese Cooking.
   
no. 84  “The State of Pork”
  • The State of Pork: Pigs, Iowa, Corn, and Pasture  Edward Behr
  • Recipes: Pork with Prunes and a Meatless Spring Cabbage
  • Soup   Edward Behr and James Macguire
  • The Lost Fishery: Shad in California  Hank Shaw
  • The Value of Wild Plants  Melissa Pasanen
  • In Galilee: Lunch with Erez Komarovsky  Mitchell Davis
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Anthony Wilson on Sottobosco vino frizzante rosso (Reggio
  • Emilia) from Cà de Noci
  • Notes and Resources
  • Lettuce, the new wine magazine Tong, saving sourdough,
  • trouble in the Mosel Valley
  • Restaurants
  • New Orleans: Rachel Wharton on Casamento’s
  • Books
  • Harris Salat on Hiromitsu Nozaki’s Japanese Kitchen Knives.
  • James MacGuire on the latest translation of the Larousse
  • Gastronomique
  • The Short List: Encyclopedia of Pasta, Collio, Canal House
  • Cooking, and Rhubarbaria
   
no. 83  “Piedmont Beef”
  • The Fair of the Fattened Ox in Carrù  John Irving
  • Classic Piedmont Beef Recipes  John Irving
  • Pain au Levain: The Best Flavor, Acidity, and Texture and Where
  • They Come From (with a Recipe and How to Buy Pain
  • au Levain)  James MacGuire
  • Duck Hunt: In Search of California’s Perfect Wild Waterfowl
  • Hank Shaw
  • Lingonberries  Lee Reich
  • Lost and Found in the Woods: Funghi Porcini  Nancy Harmon Jenkins
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Mannie Berk on Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah (Sonoma County) from
  • Edmunds St. John
  • Notes and Resources
  • Bannetons
  • Restaurants
  • Dublin: John McKenna on Chapter One
  • San Francisco Bay Area: Scott Hocker on
  • Regional Mexican Places
  • Books
  • John Irving on Maria Pignatelli Ferrante’s Puglia: A Culinary
  • Memoir (new translation)
  • Anya Fernald on Giuseppe Coria’s Sicily: Culinary Crossroads
  • (new translation)
  • Edward Behr on Michael Steinberger’s Au Revoir to All That:
  • Food, Wine, and the End of France
   
no. 82  “New Paris Bistros”
  • New Ways to Be a Restaurant in Paris: The Casualization of Dining
  • Bénédict Beaugé and Edward Behr
  • New Paris Recipes (Iñaki Aizpitarte, Guillaume Delage,
  • Nicolas Scheidt)
  • Cucina Povera: Street Food in Naples  John Irving
  • The Mechanics of Terroir  Derrick Schneider
  • Paximadia: Cretan Twice-Baked Bread  Diana Farr Louis
  • Crunch: Chapulines (Crickets, Grasshoppers, and Locusts),
  • a Mexican Delicacy  Corinna Sargood
  • Alici di Menaica: Pisciotta’s Big Little Fish  Winnie Yang
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Patrik St. Vincent on St. Julien from Domaine du Jaugaret
  • Notes and Resources
  • Curing the “nail polish” in vinegar, further thoughts on Chablis
  • Restaurants
  • Burgundy: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Grand Couvert
  • Tuscany: Beth Elon on Antico Colle
  • Books
  • Petra Tanos on Clara Margaret Czégény’s Helen’s Hungarian
  • Heritage Recipes
  • Olivia Wu on Teresa M. Chen’s A Tradition of Soup: Flavors from
  • China’s Pearl River Delta
   
no. 81  “Burgundy II: Chablis”
  • Chablis  Edward Behr
  • A Few Recipes from Burgundy, Suited to a Glass of Chablis  Edward
  • Behr and James MacGuire
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Jacqueline Friedrich on Le Fief de Breil (Muscadet Sèvre et
  • Maine) from Domaine de la Louvetrie
  • Notes and Resources
  • Parmigiano-Reggiano and Valpolicella, saltpeter and taste
  • Restaurants
  • Chicago: Winnie Yang on L2O
  • New Haven and Vermont: Edward Behr on Sally’s Apizza and
  • the Parker Pie Co.
  • Books
  • Mary Fitzpatrick on Pierre Thiam’s YOLELE! Recipes from:
  • the Heart of Senegal
  • Edward Behr on Slow Food’s Dizionario delle cucine regionali
  • italiane
  • Briefly Noted: What We Eat When We Eat Alone and Les
  • Cuisines de la Critique Gastronomique
   
      no. 80  “American Charcuterie”
  • American Charcuterie: The Cooked  Winnie Yang
  • Pâté de Campagne and Other Recipes  Edward Behr and
  • James MacGuire
  • Mâche: A Salad for the Cold Season  Barbara Damrosch
  • Black Currants  Melissa Pasanen
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • David Schildknecht on La Châtelaine (Bourgogne Vézelay) from
  • Domaine de la Cadette
  • Notes and Resources
  • Culture magazine, nonsweet red-wine vinegar,
  • buckwheat honey, Tennessee ham
  • Restaurants
  • Santa Fe: Deborah Madison on Tia Sophia’s
  • Books
  • James MacGuire on Stéphane Reynaud’s Terrine
  • Rachel Wharton on John Shelton Reed, Dale Volberg Reed,
  • and William McKinney’s Holy Smoke
  • Alice Ross on Nancy Carter Crump’s Hearthside Cooking
   
Issue 79 of The Art of Eating no. 79  “Throwing the Rest Out: A Personal Selection of       Cookbooks”
  • Throwing the Rest Out: A Personal Selection of Cookbooks
  • Edward Behr
  • West Coast Mussels  Jeff Cox
  • Mussel Recipes  Edward Behr and James MacGuire
  • Brown Sugar from Okinawa  Hiroko Shimbo
  • Medlar: The Rotten Fruit  Lee Reich
  • The Golden Spice: Saffron in Morocco  Corinna Sargood
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Alice Feiring on Côt from Clos Roche Blanche
  • Notes and Resources
  • Okinawa brown sugar, Taza chocolate
  • Restaurants
  • The Marche: John Irving on Da Maria in Fano
  • Books
  • Kenneth Davids on Scott Rao’s The Professional Barista’s
  • Handbook
  • John Newton on Paul Richardson’s A Late Dinner
  • Fabio Parasecoli on Grant Achatz’s Alinea
   
Issue 78 of The Art of Eating no. 78  “Andouillette”
  • The Andouillette of Troyes: Primary Sausage  Edward Behr
  • Fishing for Avgotaraho  Diana Farr Louis
  • Salentine Home Cooking  John Irving
  • Foraging for Clams on Block Island  Hank Shaw
  • Velveting, Deep-Frying, Stir-Frying, and General Tso’s Chicken
  • Ed Schoenfeld
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Jacqueline Friedrich on Yannick Amirault’s Les Malgagnes
  • from St. Nicolas de Bourgueil
  • Notes and Resources
  • Avgotaraho and bottarga, and “My Big, Expensive
  • Stainless-Steel Stove”
  • Books
  • Nancy Harmon Jenkins on Lori De Mori’s Beaneaters &
  • Bread Soup
  • Edward Behr on John Thorne’s Mouth Wide Open
  • Winnie Yang on Ammini Ramachandran’s Grains, Green, and
  • Grated Coconuts
  • David Cobbold on Clive Coates’s The Wines of Burgundy
   
Issue 77 of The Art of Eating       no. 77  “Island Sheep”
  • Island Sheep: Keeping Flocks Down East  Sam Hayward
  • The Berber Tree of Life and the Acrobatic Goats (Argan Oil)
  • Corinna Sargood
  • The Palm Honey of La Gomera  Tara Stevens
  • Why This Bottle, Really?
  • Jamie Goode on Chateau Musar
  • Notes and Resources
  • A handwrought gridiron, true buttermilk, the Technivorm
  • Restaurants
  • Los Angeles: Winnie Yang on Pizzeria Mozza
  • New York: Mitchell Davis on Morandi and Balthazar
  • Marseille: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Petit Nice
  • Liguria: John Irving on Antica Osteria dei Mosto
  • Books
  • Edward Behr on Gillian Riley’s Oxford Companion to Italian Food
  • James MacGuire on Édouard de Pomaine’s Vingt Plats qui
  • donnent la goutte and on Le Trésor de la cuisine du
  • bassin méditerranéen par 70 médecins de France
  • David Campbell on Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss’s
  • The Story of Tea and Lydia Gautier’s Tea
  • Elisa Herr on Sushi Books: Hiroko Shimbo’s The Sushi
  • Experience and Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art
  • (with a brief sushi glossary)
   
Issue 76 of The Art of Eating no. 76  “Aglianico del Vulture”
  • Aglianico in Basilicata  Edward Behr
  • Tastes Like Rabbit  Derrick Schneider
  • Rabbit Recipes, Mostly French  James MacGuire
  • Notes and Resources
  • Old-fashioned high-carbon Nogent knives, pruneaux d’Agen
  • Restaurants
  • Florence: Mitchell Davis on Buca dell’Orafo
  • New York: Mitchell Davis on Momofuku Ssäm Bar
  • Books
  • Fabio Parasecoli on Nancy Harmon Jenkins’s Cucina del Sole:
  • A Celebration of Southern Italian Cooking
  • Edward Behr on Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page’s
  • What to Drink with What You Eat
  • Vikram Vij on Niloufer Ichaporia King’s My Bombay Kitchen
   
Issue 75 of The Art of Eating no. 75  “Cloth-Bound Vermont Cheddar”
  • Cloth-Bound: Cabot Creamery, Jasper Hill Farm, and an Older, Better Way to Age Vermont Cheddar  Edward Behr
  • True Wasabi  Rowan Jacobsen
  • The Lamb of Quercy  David Downie
  • The Most Famous Fatback in the World: Lardo di Colonnata
  • Edward Behr
  • Notes and Resources
  • Sourwood, gallberry, and tupelo honeys
  • Recipes: stewed rhubarb, lemon honey flan, hazelnut honey cake,
  • honey ice cream
  • Restaurants
  • Napa: David Campbell on Pilar
  • New York: Mitchell Davis on Blaue Gans
  • Books
  • David Schildknecht on Jacqueline Friedrich’s
  • The Wines of France
  • James MacGuire on Heston Blumenthal: In Search of Perfection
  • Elisa Herr and Ed Schoenfeld on Fuschia Dunlop’s
  • Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook
   
Issue 73 + 74 of The Art of Eating no. 73+74  “20th Anniversary Issue”counts as two issues
  • Questioning Myself  Edward Behr
  • California Olive Oil: Entering a Golden Age  Jeff Cox
  • Truffles, White and Black  David Downie
  • Recipes: chestnut soup, sausages for oysters, salmon soufflé,
  • polpette
  • Gallery: Abenaki Flint Corn (Ruth and Roy Fair)  Ethan Hubbard
  • What Does It Mean Now That a Winemaker Can Select the
  • Structure of a Wine?: The Lessons of Clark Smith
  • and Vinovation  Derrick Schneider
  • The Baguette  James MacGuire
  • The Shining Drink: Mead Endures  Rowan Jacobsen
  • Restaurants
  • France: Bénédict Beaugé on the Gargouillou of Michel Bras
  • New York: Mitchell Davis on Ducasse, Robuchon, and
  • Le Veau d’Or
  • Notes and Resources
  • Letters
  • Books
  • Lesley Chesterman on Elizabeth Prueitt’s and
  • Chad Robertson’s Tartine and Pierre Hermé’s PH 10
  • Edward Behr on Jamie Goode’s The Science of Wine
  • and Evan Goldstein’s Perfect Pairings
  • with a note on Paula Wolfert’s The Cooking of
  • Southwest France
   
Issue 72 of The Art of Eating no. 72  “A Particular Taste: Vin Jaune and Other Traditional Wines of the Jura” — Recommended wine producers — Addresses in the Franche-Comté — Mexican Vanilla: Sketches in Papantla — A Taste by Any Other Name: Umami Comes West — recipes — notes and resources (garlic, dried morels, filet green beans, Mexican vanilla beans) — letters — books: Lee Reich’s Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden.





   
Issue 71 of The Art of Eating no. 71  “Olympia Oysters” — small, nutty, and possibly the best — the fresher, the better — Riesling in the Mosel Valley — Unsalted Italian Bread — recipes — notes and resources (oyster knives, oyster opening, Il Teatro del Sale, Wellfleets, Joe Beef) — letters — books: La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, The Silver Spoon, Steven Shaw’s Turning the Tables, Trevor Corson’s The Secret Life of Lobsters, and Elizabeth Andoh’s Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen.




   
Issue 70 of The Art of Eating no. 70  “Gruyère de Comté”Tropical Fruit in Homestead, Florida — Science and the Pursuit of a Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg, Roast Chicken, and Flaky Pie Crust — Vegetables in Italy — recipes — notes and resources (dried corn) — books: How-to Bread Books, Max McCalman’s Cheese, Patience Gray’s The Centaur’s Kitchen, and John T. Edge’s Fried Chicken, Apple Pie, and Hamburgers & Fries.






   
Issue 69 of The Art of Eating no. 69  “Contemporary Restaurants in Montreal” — a surge of energy and a particular style, the old cooking, the future — addresses in Montreal — Burgundy’s Charolais Beef — Maine Fish Chowder — Patience Gray — Comment: The revolution in wine is not that simple — recipes — notes and resources (roasting and the clockjack, New York restaurant update) — books: Mes Tartes, Cooking Weeds, and On Food and Cooking.





   
Issue 68 of The Art of Eating no. 68  “Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part II” — bagels, bread, cheese, chocolate, coffee, equipment, ice cream, meat, pastry, various ingredients, wine — The Best Red-Wine Vinegar You’re Likely to Find Is the One You Make Yourself — Tasting Wisconsin — The Dilemma of Foie Gras — recipes — notes and resources (Tuscan olive oil, shagbark hickory nuts, shagbark hickory syrup) — books: The Whole Beast and Country Scrapple.





   
Issue 67 of The Art of Eating no. 67  “Beaujolais: The Goal of a Gulpable Wine” — the wine was no longer supposed to exist — the place and the Gamay grape — Lyon and la cuisine lyonnaise — but wasn’t the wine made differently back then? — Marcel Lapierre and the microscope group — Jean Foillard in Morgon — Yvon Métras in Fleurie — Louis-Claude and Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes in Morgon — Jean-Paul Brun in the Golden Stones — Château Thivin in the Côte de Brouilly — Paul Janin et Fils in Moulin-à-Vent — how close are these wines to the Beaujolais ideal? — some recommended vignerons — addresses in the Beaujolais and Lyon — Hunting for California Terroir: Western Paso Robles — recipes — letters — books: Italian Easy, How to Run a Restaurant, The Fate of Family Farming, and Recipes from Corsica.
   
Issue 66 of The Art of Eating no. 66  “Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part I” — Food you eat standing up, American, breakfast, Chinese, dessert, French, Greek, Italian, Japanese, Jewish, Korean, Latin, Middle Eastern, Mitteleuropean, steak, Thai — The Genovese Basil of Prà — notes and resources (smoked fish, more cheese from Vermont) — letters — books: Pierre Gagnaire: Reflections on Culinary Artistry, The Cook’s Canon: 101 Classic Recipes Everyone Should Know, and Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating.





   
Issue 65 of The Art of Eating no. 65 “Sicily” — the freshness of the fish — a fertile obstacle in the middle — Cúscusu in Trapani and the Arab influence — Giuseppe Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa — a sketch of Palermo — the wine to go with the meal — and what about Marsala? — a cannolo and works in progress — an unexpected meal in darkness — recipes — Liguria’s torta salata — Precision Cuts: Japanese Knives — gallery: Barbecue — notes and resources (butter, capers, cider vinegar, coffee) — letters — books: The Good Cuisine, Glorious French Food, Cuisine Naturelle, The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, The Brewmaster’s Table, and Giuliano Bugialli’s Food of Naples and Campania.


   
Issue 64 of The Art of Eating no. 64 “Good Veal” — bad veal — a barnyard and fresh milk — a market outside the commodity market — cook veal gently, as a rule — toward a definition of good veal — is it veal if it’s grass-fed? — how small veal producers survive and a possible dairy-farm model for the future — addresses — recipes — The Roundup of Darjeeling Essentials (with recommended gardens and importers) — The Pleasures and Challenge of Elizabeth David — gallery: Grenada — In Paris: La Table de Lucullus — notes and resources (Greek oregano, Colorado cheese shop, cream in spinach, a new wine newsletter) — letters — books: The Pleasures of Slow Food, The Last Days of Haute Cuisine, and Purer.

   
Issue 63 of The Art of Eating no. 63 “Some Other Wines from Anjou”— Savennières from Château d’Épire; — Francis Poirel across the river in the Quarts de Chaume — Jo Pithon in the Coteaux du Layon — Hervé Duloquet farther south in the Coteaux du Layon — and, upriver near Saumur, red wine from Clos Rougeard — recommended wines — recipes — Pâtisserie en Boutique (millefeuille, Paris-Brest, tarte au citron) — Rome’s Guanciale (Cured Hog Jowl) — gallery: Cider-making in North Devon — notes and resources (cheese from Lake Champlain, Sabatier knives) — letters — books: Thai Food, Chez Panisse Fruit, The Soups of France, Mediterranean Seafood, Vous avez déjà essayez?, and Les Pains français.

   
Issue 62 of The Art of Eating no. 62 “Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo”(in twelve categories of food) — “Coulée de Serrant: An Exceptional Wine from the Loire” — conflicting views on the wine — the most fervent believer in biodynamic farming — the vineyard itself — methods in the cellar — would it be better as a sweet wine? — the tasting — addresses — recipes — Searching for Sweet Red (sweet red bell peppers) — Ricotta in the Monti Sicani of Sicily — notes and resources (acacia honey, chocolate from Venezuela) — letters — books: When French Women Cook, Feasting and Fasting in Crete, and The Magic of Fire.



   
Issue 61 of The Art of Eating no. 61 “English Food” — and how good is English food? — the raw materials — the fate of the raw materials — a possible explanation for why there isn’t more good cooking — real Cornish saffron buns — local beer — the meaning of Heston Blumenthal and the Fat Duck — addresses, recipes — gallery: A Farm Woman’s Work — A Question of Balance: The Farming of Fish — Albondigas — notes and resources (old-style smoked Alaska salmon, flavorful grits) — Note from Vichy — letters — books: Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, Damon Lee Fowler’s New Southern Kitchen, and The Way of Tea.



   
Issue 60 of The Art of Eating no. 60 “Paris (Again): An Annotated Address Book” — Paris and French food — land — culture (the influence of the best wine...) — the advantages of fashion — the addresses by category — recipes — Croissants — Why Escoffier? — The Buckwheat Noodle Festival — notes and resources (wooden spoons, Darjeeling tea) — letters (including home coffee roasting).






   
Issue 59 of The Art of Eating no. 59 “Burgundy I”jambon persillé (parsleyed ham) — the cheese of the Abbey at Cîteaux — very stinky cheese: the story of Époisses (saving the cheese from extinction and the struggle to preserve flavor in an age of super-cleanliness and mass-production, the Époisses of Jean Berthaut, the raw-milk Époisses of the Gaugry family) — pain d’épices de Dijon (spice bread) — addresses, recipes — Baklava — Darjeeling 4: Capturing the Flavor (Plucking and the Factory) — notes and resources (sauerkraut, wild rice, letterpress books, redware, plum pudding, Catskills thyme honey) — books: Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen.


   
Issue 58 of The Art of Eating no. 58 “Southern Piedmont Part II: The Great Wines of Barolo and Barbaresco” — how much remains of tradition and why does it matter? — the character of the Nebbiolo grape — the nature of the Langa hills — change comes to Barolo, or how it happened that the traditional wines almost disappeared — the questions about the two kinds of wines, traditional and modern — an intermezzo on polenta — profiles of winemakers — answers — recommended producers, more addresses, recipes — Darjeeling 3: The Elusive Sources of Darjeeling FragranceCàdiz Market — notes and resources (chocolate, polenta corn meal, Greek olive oil) — letters — books: The Taste of Bread and Real Wine.

   
Issue 57 of The Art of Eating no. 57 “Real Beer in Belgium, the Greatest Brewing Country” — primordial beer (lambic) — the recipe for beer (yeasts are everything) — brewing at a very traditional brewery — authenticity, Interbrew, and where things are going — the saison beers — the complicated good works of the Trappists — hope for a niche — recommended beers, addresses (with a few words on Belgian chocolate), recipes — Charbons — Lemon Curd — At the Moment in Paris (restaurants) — notes and resources (mushrooms, New England corn meal) — letters  — books: Italian Cheese and A Goose in Toulouse.



   
Issue 56 of The Art of Eating no. 56 “Southern Piedmont Part I: High Mountain Pastures and a Brief Introduction to the Cooking” — the pursuit of Castelmagno cheese, beginning with a setback — beautiful alpeggio — cheeses from under the heavens — the most respected winemaker, on food — the love of making grappa — above the vines and among the hazelnuts of the Alta Langa — Castelmagno again, at the Stagionatura di Val Casotto — call for confirmation — a few last words about the cooking — addresses, recipes — The Art of Making Phyllo — Darjeeling 2: To Brew Darjeeling Tea — notes and resources (coffee, Castelmagno cheese, Colorado blue cheese) — letters — books, (etc).: The Indian Grocery Store Demystified, Mattanza, and “The Zagat Effect.”.


   
Issue 55 of The Art of Eating no. 55 “Provence: The Cooking of Poor People, Wine from a Southern Climate, Olive Oil from the Valley of Les Baux” — a Provençal cook (Guy Gedda) — another cook and a wine (Lulu Peyraud and the Bandol of Domaine Tempier) — ruins — the garden of a curious man (Jean-Luc Danneyrolles) — the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise of Domaine de Durban — the traditional methods used to make the wine of Palette (Château Simone) — a new kind of olive oil from Les Baux — addresses, recipes — Pastured Poultry — notes and resources (ewe’s-milk cheese, olive oil) — letters — books: Port and the Douro, Kitchen Confidential, and Every Night Italian.


   
Issue 54 of The Art of Eating no. 54 “Emilia Romagna: The Resurgent Red Cows of Parmigiano Reggiano and Other Stories from the Region Whose Cuisine Has Always Been Called Italy’s Richest and Best”ragù — the exceptional ham called culatellosapa and real balsamic vinegar from Modena — mortadella — really good wine from Romagna (Fattoria Zerbina) — a cheese buried in the earth — the Italian urge to be “modern” — addresses, recipes — Darjeeling — A Kitchen in Upper Egypt — resources, books, letters.



   
Issue 53 of The Art of Eating no. 53 “Sauternes” — the taste of noble rot — the terroir of sugar and how noble rot works — Sémillon, Sauvignon, and the fate of Muscadelle — the picking of only “roasted” grapes — some top châteaux: Climens, Gilette, La Tour Blanche, de Rayne-Vigneau, Guiraud, Rieussec, Suduiraut, d’Yquem — addresses, recipes — notes and resources (lamb, sorghum), books, letters. 28 pp.




   
Issue 52 of The Art of Eating no. 52 “Restaurants in Northern Italy”alta cucina in Milan — What is Italian food? — three more restaurants — a farm that serves meals in the hills of the Oltrepò Pavese — Da Lancellotti — focaccia col formaggio from a shack by the sea — a vast chickpea pancake — a hole-in-the-wall for deep-fried food — addresses, recipes — Richard Olney — resources, letters, books. 24 pp.






   
Issue 51 of The Art of Eating no. 51“The Lost Taste of Pork (Finding a Place for the Iowa Family Farm)” — Paul Willis and traditional outdoor methods — factory farms — letting pigs be pigs — three Iowa market gardeners — Niman Ranch (again) — the question of organic methods — price, accountability, and the small scale of the family farm — cuts of pork, cooking pork, affinities with pork — notes, letters, resources. 24 pp.






   
  colored sqaureno. 50 “Venice” — local food versus tourism — ombre, cicheti and bâcari — the Venetian Lagoon — the Rialto markets and the many kinds of fish —  the fish market at Chioggia — the greens and gardens — pastry — three Venetian dishes — restaurants — addresses. 24 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 49 “Sonoma County (and a Look at Tomales Bay)” — the new olive oils — market gardens — the state of farm-made cheeses — extremely good bread — the California-ness of California wine — some grape-growers and winemakers: Lou Preston, Joe Rochioli, Merry Edwards, Warren Dutton — Hog Island oysters — resources and addresses. 24 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 48 “Champagne”— the logic of a brand (a blend) as opposed to terroir and vintage — the grapes and vineyards — acid and sugar — visits to a few top houses. “Foie Gras” — the fat markets of Southwest France — small farmers and high quality — the difference between duck and goose foie gras — North American sources.  24 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 47 “A Dry-Aged Steak”— the reasons for dry-aging — the cuts — bone in or bone out? and how thick? — sources — red wines for steak. “A Sharp Knife” — materials and design — how to sharpen a knife — brands and a source. 18 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 46 “Paris (or What Is French Food?); Part II. More Answers and Places That Are Truly French” — three-star restaurants and bistrots — the Halles and the origins of French food — where is French food going and how long will it last? — good addresses. 24 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 45 “Paris (or What Is French Food?); Part I, Posing the Question and The Classic Parisian Baguette”haute cuisine and the urge to dazzle — the qualities that are irreducibly French — the classic Parisian baguette — where it came from — what creates a great one — a baker of baguettes . 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 44 “Two Strong, Sweet Wines of Mediterranean France (the Banyuls of the Domaine du Mas Blanc and the Maury of the Mas Amiel)” — the wines to drink with chocolate. “Caviar” — the kinds of caviar — how to know what’s good — sources.“A Gentle Manifesto on the Craft of Roasting Coffee” — coffee is a fruit beverage — the virtues of a moderate roast — sources. 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 43 “The Caves of Roquefort (the terroir of a great cheese)”— a Roquefort farm — the Lacaune sheep — the caves and the blue mold — what is the terroir? — best brands — how to choose and serve Roquefort — what to drink. 16 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 42 “What Creates the Best Vegetables?” — the market garden — the importance of varieties, methods, and environment — is organic better? “Real Country Bacon” — dry-cured Virginia and Kentucky bacon — salt and smoking — best bacon sources. 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 41 “In Tuscany (The Sangiovese Grape, Bread Without Salt, A Pot Shaped Like a Bottle, The Veneration of Olive Oil)” — the evolution of Tuscan red wine and the making of vin santo — a baker of traditional unsalted Tuscan bread — cooking beans in an earthenware Tuscan pot — the great Tuscan olive oil, including the sinolea process. 18 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 40 “In the Region of Cognac” — the virtues of the great brandy of the town of Cognac — the butter that is probably the best in France — a farmer of snails — the cheesecake called tourteau fromagé — the traditionally made sea salt of the Ile de Ré. 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 39 “Looking for Old-Fashioned Cheddar — or — What Became of Store Cheese”— twenty or thirty years ago, wheels of aged North American cheddar were commonplace in the country stores of New York and New England; at its best it was one of the world’s great cheeses — a search for survivors and for what made the cheese so good. 16 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 38 “Catalan Food” — the ancient, important, little-known cuisine of the region of Catalonia, which includes Barcelona — sausage-makers, cheesemakers, anchovy-curers, simple restaurants. 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 37 “Munster Cheese, Dry Muscat Wine, Choucroute, and other Happinesses in the Haut-Rhin Of Alsace” — a guide to gastronomic treasures of southern Alsace — addresses. 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 36 “Dark Chocolate”— the best chocolate in the world is not Belgian or Swiss but French, and the best chocolatiers may also be French (Pierre Hermé, Robert Linxe, the Bernachons) — the provenances of the best beans — how they are transformed into the best chocolate — tastings of American and European brands. 16 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 35 “Stone, Sea, and a Dry, Fertile Soil (Encounters in Apulia)”— the strong culinary traditions of the heel of the Italian boot, which is famous for wheat and bread, vegetables, olive oil, wine (albeit more often quantity than quality) — bakers, an exceptional maker pasta-maker, a top olive-oil producer — making ricotta on a mountain farm without electricity — interview with Severino Garofano, outstanding southern enologist. 18 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 34 “Gombo (Acadian Food in Southwest Louisiana)” — Cajun food, which is rural food — how to make a roux, recipes for two gumbos — crawfish — the roots of Cajun cooking in Acadia, Africa, and France — differences between “Cajun” and “Creole.” 18 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 33 “Olive Oil” — focus on the delicate, aromatic oil of Lake Garda in northern Italy — the origins of fine olive flavor — the true meaning of “extra-virgin” (acidic taste has nothing to do with it). 16 pp.   
     
  colored squareno. 32 “Three Wines of the Loire (Bourgueil, Vouvray, and Sancerre)” — Loire wines with exceptional character, because of their makers and the soil and stone of particular vineyards — visits to Pierre Caslot, Pierre-Jacques Druet, Philippe Foreau, Gaston Huet, Philippe Ponitowski, Edmond and Bernadette Vatan, Jean-Marie Bourgeois. 18 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 31 “The Coast of Maine” — the origins of Downeast cooking — on the water with a lobsterman — lobster pounds, oysters, baked beans, sauerkraut, Indian corn, smoked salmon. 20 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 30 “Red-Wine Vinegar” — the last traditional vinegar-maker of the French city of Orleans, and probably of all France, using methods unchanged from the 19th century — what makes great vinegar — how to make it yourself. 14 pp.   
     
  colored squareno. 29 “A Well-Crafted White Loaf (Cream-Colored Flours, Gentle Mixers, Hand-Shaping, and Really Flavorful Bread)” — that rarest of breads: great white bread — a visit to Acme Bread Co. in Berkeley, California, and interview with Steve Sullivan — the views of Professor Calvel of Paris — recipe for great white bread. 18 pp.   
     
  colored squareno. 28 “In the Vineyards of Friuli”— the northeasternmost region of Italy is home to what may be Italy’s finest white wines and to superb red wines from indigenous varieties — culture, history, origins, winemakers, notes on food and restaurants. 18 pp.   
     
  colored squareno. 27 “The Goat Is the Cow of the Poor” — Provençal farm cheeses, superb everyday cheeses as well as rare ones (Le Gardien, Camarguais, true Banon) — open-air markets, some outstanding cheesemakers — the unusual techniques traditional to the south of France. 18 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 26 “The Nature of Lamb” with “Restaurant Wine Lists,” “Restaurant Critics,” and “The American Minor Breeds Conservancy” — pasture-fed, grain-fed, milk-fed lamb — cooking lamb — wine in restaurants — the role of restaurant critics — the AMBC and the importance of old-fashioned farm animals to good eating. 16 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 25 “High Standards, Hard Work, Simplicity, and a Good Place to Eat”— the meaning of a “good restaurant” and of “simplicity”— the first French restaurants after the Revolution and how we got where we are today — practicalities, problems of raw materials, expectations of eaters. 14 pp.   
     
  colored squareno. 24 “Into the Woods (Wild Mushrooms)” — mushrooming — flavorful North American species — best ways to cook them. 16 pp.   
     
  colored squareno. 23 “Maryland Crab” — a sketch of Maryland’s Eastern Shore — the blue crabs of the Chesapeake Bay — softshell crab — a recipe for crab cakes and three of Mrs. Howard’s original 19th-century recipes for crab soup. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 22 “Pizza in Naples” — pizza in the city where pizza originated and remains better than anywhere else — dough, condiments, the physics of the wood-fired Neapolitan ovens — how pizza came to be in Naples as opposed to anywhere else. 14 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 21 “Honey Makers” and “Between Wild and Tame (Farm-Raised Game Birds)” — honey, in its extreme variety, is one of the most vivid reflectors of terroir — what makes the finest honey — portrait of a Vermont beekeeper — plus the “game” birds produced on farms and how to cook them. 16 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 20 “A Cup of Coffee” — the flavor of a cup of Coffee derives from the beans’ geographic origin, from their preparation at the plantation, from how light or dark they are roasted, from the way they are ground and then brewed. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 19 “California Sauvignon Blanc ” — potatoes. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 18 “The Pursuit of the Fundamental Loaf” — choosing apple varieties. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 17 “An Aged Country Ham” — on English and French mustards. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 16 “The Atlantic Salmon” — English walnuts — salad cucumbers. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 15 “Elegy for the Taste of Cream” — eggs. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 14 “Wine from Barley” — The French Cheese Book — a mussel primer — eight sourdough cultures. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 13 “Bourbon, Mexican, and Tahitian Vanillas” — bay leaves — a pot on the fire (stock). 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 12 “Apples, Apples, Apples” — recommended American cheeses: an updated list — wild boar — book review: Pomp and Sustenance. 14 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 11 “La Cuisine Québécoise” — the sweet orange carrot — cooking times. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 10 “Black Pepper” — of wild yeast, Rhode Island rye, and Indian corn — books: French Wine, French FoodThe Field and Garden Vegetables of America. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 9 “A Flavorful Tomato, Revisited” — a sense of place — food in the hill country — Chez Panisse cooking — Rote Grütze. 12 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 8 “American Cheeses: Recommendations” — storing and serving cheese — the situation with sheep cheeses — a sharp knife — labiatae (a few words about the mint family). 12 pp.
 
     
  colored squareno. 7 “To Bake a Fish” — hybrids and standards in the kitchen garden — three recipes for baked fish — how to tell a fresh fish — some books about fish. 8 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 6 “Millstones, Old Mills, and the Taste of Bread” — why use good ingredients? — a favorite cake — exploiting stone-ground flavor. 8 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 5 “Roast Beef, Roasting, and Some Accompaniments to Roast Beef” — Soufflé Napolitain — prime beef and aging. 8 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 4 “Brioche” — a ripe, flavorful tomato — advice to gardeners — a september menu. 8 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 3 “Fresh Sausages for the Grill” — Tahitian vanilla — the goodness of salt. 8 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 2 “Fresh Cheeses: Milk Cheeses and Cream Cheeses” — sorrel — notes on orange custard — buying Camembert and Brie. 8 pp.  
     
  colored squareno. 1 “A Fundamental Loaf” — Les Fours à pain au Québec — a well-poached custard — notes on chervil. 8 pp.  
     
  Subject Index         Recipe Index

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