• Island Sheep: Keeping Flocks Down East  Sam Hayward
• The Berber Tree of Life and the Acrobatic Goats (Argan Oil)  Corinna Sargood
• The Palm Honey of La Gomera  Tara Stevens
• Why This Bottle, Really?
      Jamie Goode on Chateau Musar
• Notes and Resources (argan oil, a handwrought gridiron, true buttermilk,
    the Technivorm)
• Restaurants
    Los Angeles: Winnie Yang on Pizzeria Mozza
    New York: Mitchell Davis on Morandi and Balthazar
    Marseille: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Petit Nice
    Liguria: John Irving on Antica Osteria dei Mosto
• Books
    Edward Behr on Gillian Riley’s Oxford Companion to Italian Food
    James MacGuire on Édouard de Pomaine’s Vingt Plats qui donnent la goutte
      and on Le Trésor de la cuisine du bassin méditerranéen par
       70 médecins de France
    David Campbell on Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss’s The Story of Tea and
      Lydia Gautier’s Tea
    Elisa Herr on Sushi Books: Hiroko Shimbo’s The Sushi Experience and
      Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art (with a brief sushi glossary)
  

no. 76 "Aglianico del Vulture"   48 pp.

• Aglianico in Basilicata  Edward Behr
• Tastes Like Rabbit  Derrick Schneider
• Rabbit Recipes, Mostly French  James MacGuire
• Notes and Resources (old-fashioned high-carbon Nogent knives,
     pruneaux d’Agen)
• Restaurants:
    Florence: Mitchell Davis on Buca dell’Orafo
    New York: Mitchell Davis on Momofuku Ssäm Bar
• Books:
    Fabio Parasecoli on Nancy Harmon Jenkins’s Cucina del Sole:
          A Celebration of Southern Italian Cooking
    Edward Behr on Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page’s What to Drink
          with What You Eat
    Vikram Vij on Niloufer Ichaporia King’s My Bombay Kitchen
  

no. 75  "Cloth Bound Vermont Cheddar"  48 pp.

• Cloth-Bound: Cabot Creamery, Jasper Hill Farm, and an Older, Better Way to Age Vermont Cheddar  Edward Behr
• True Wasabi  Rowan Jacobsen
• The Lamb of Quercy  David Downie
• The Most Famous Fatback in the World: Lardo di Colonnata  Edward Behr
• Notes and Resources: sourwood, gallberry, and tupelo honeys
• Recipes: stewed rhubard, lemon honey flan, hazelnut honey cake,
    honey ice cream
• Restaurants:
    Napa: David Campbell on Pilar
    New York: Mitchell Davis on Blaue Gans
• Books:
    David Schildknecht on Jacqueline Friedrich's The Wines of France
    James MacGuire on Heston Blumenthal: In Search of Perfection
    Elisa Herr and Ed Schoenfeld on Fuschia Dunlop's
     Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook
  

nos. 73 + 74  "20th Anniversary Double Issue"  80 pp.

• Questioning Myself  Edward Behr
• California Olive Oil: Entering a Golden Age  Jeff Cox
• Truffles, White and Black  David Downie
• Recipes: chestnut soup, sausages for oysters, salmon soufflé, polpette
• Gallery: Abenaki Flint Corn (Ruth and Roy Fair)  Ethan Hubbard
• What Does It Mean Now That a Winemaker Can Select the Structure of a Wine?:
    The Lessons of Clark Smith and Vinovation  Derrick Schneider
• The Baguette  James MacGuire
• The Shining Drink: Mead Endures  Rowan Jacobsen
• Restaurants:
    France: Bénédict Beaugé on the Gargouillou of Michel Bras
    New York: Mitchell Davis on Ducasse, Robuchon, and Le Veau d'Or
• Notes and Resources
• Letters
• Books:
    Lesley Chesterman on Elizabeth Prueitt's and Chad Robertson's
     Tartine and Pierre Hermé's PH 10
    Edward Behr on Jamie Goode's The Science of Wine
    and Evan Goldstein's Perfect Pairings
    with a note on Paula Wolfert's The Cooking of Southwest France
  

no. 72  "A Particular Taste: Vin Jaune and Other Traditional Wines of the Jura" — Recommended wine producers — Addresses in the Franche-Comté — Mexican Vanilla: Sketches in Papantla — A Taste by Any Other Name: Umami Comes West — recipes — notes and resources (garlic, dried morels, filet green beans, Mexican vanilla beans) — letters — books: Lee Reich's Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden. 44 pp.

no. 71 "Olympia Oysters" — small, nutty, and possibly the best — the fresher, the better — Riesling in the Mosel Valley — Unsalted Italian Bread — recipes — notes and resources (oyster knives, oyster opening, Il Teatro del Sale, Wellfleets, Joe Beef) — letters — books: La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, The Silver Spoon, Steven Shaw's Turning the Tables, Trevor Corson's The Secret Life of Lobsters, and Elizabeth Andoh's Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen. 40 pp.

no. 70 "Gruyère de Comté" — Tropical Fruit in Homestead, Florida — Science and the Pursuit of a Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg, Roast Chicken, and Flaky Pie Crust — Vegetables in Italy — recipes — notes and resources (dried corn) — books: How-to Bread Books, Max McCalman's Cheese, Patience Gray's The Centaur's Kitchen, and John T. Edge's Fried Chicken, Apple Pie, and Hamburgers & Fries. 48 pp.

no. 69 "Contemporary Restaurants in MontreaI" — a surge of energy and a particular style, the old cooking, the future — addresses in Montreal — Burgundy's Charolais Beef — Maine Fish Chowder — Patience Gray — Comment: The revolution in wine is not that simple — recipes — notes and resources (roasting and the clockjack, New York restaurant update) — books: Mes Tartes, Cooking Weeds, and On Food and Cooking. 48 pp.

no. 68 "Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part II" — bagels, bread, cheese, chocolate, coffee, equipment, ice cream, meat, pastry, various ingredients, wine — The Best Red-Wine Vinegar You're Likely to Find Is the One You Make Yourself — Tasting Wisconsin — The Dilemma of Foie Gras — recipes — notes and resources (Tuscan olive oil, shagbark hickory nuts, shagbark hickory syrup) — books: The Whole Beast and Country Scrapple. 40 pp.

no. 67 "Beaujolais: The Goal of a Gulpable Wine" — the wine was no longer supposed to exist — the place and the Gamay grape — Lyon and la cuisine lyonnaise — but wasn't the wine made differently back then? — Marcel Lapierre and the microscope group — Jean Foillard in Morgon — Yvon Métras in Fleurie — Louis-Claude and Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes in Morgon — Jean-Paul Brun in the Golden Stones — Château Thivin in the Côte de Brouilly — Paul Janin et Fils in Moulin-à-Vent — how close are these wines to the Beaujolais ideal? — some recommended vignerons — addresses in the Beaujolais and Lyon — Hunting for California Terroir: Western Paso Robles — recipes — letters — books: Italian Easy, How to Run a Restaurant, The Fate of Family Farming, and Recipes from Corsica. 48 pp.

no. 66 "Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part I" — Food you eat standing up, American, breakfast, Chinese, dessert, French, Greek, Italian, Japanese, Jewish, Korean, Latin, Middle Eastern, Mitteleuropean, steak, Thai — The Genovese Basil of Prà — notes and resources (smoked fish, more cheese from Vermont) — letters — books: Pierre Gagnaire: Reflections on Culinary Artistry, The Cook's Canon: 101 Classic Recipes Everyone Should Know, and Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating. 44 pp.

no. 65 "Sicily" — the freshnesss of the fish — a fertile obstacle in the middle — Cúscusu in Trapani and the Arab influence — Giuseppe Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa — a sketch of Palermo — the wine to go with the meal — and what about Marsala? — a cannolo and works in progress — an unexpected meal in darkness — addresses in Sicily — recipes — Liguria's torta salata — Precision Cuts: Japanese Knives — gallery: Barbecue — notes and resources (butter, capers, cider vinegar, coffee) — letters — books: The Good Cuisine, Glorious French Food, Cuisine Naturelle, The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, The Brewmaster's Table, and Giuliano Bugialli's Food of Naples and Campania. 48 pp.

no. 64 "Good Veal" — bad veal — a barnyard and fresh milk — a market outside the commodity market — cook veal gently, as a rule — toward a definition of good veal — is it veal if it's grass-fed? — how small veal producers survive and a possible dairy-farm model for the future — addresses — recipes — The Roundup of Darjeeling Essentials (with recommended gardens and importers) — The Pleasures and Challenge of Elizabeth David — gallery: Grenada — In Paris: La Table de Lucullus — notes and resources (Greek oregano, Colorado cheese shop, cream in spinach, a new wine newsletter) — letters — books: The Pleasures of Slow Food, The Last Days of Haute Cuisine, and Purer. 48 pp.

no. 63 "Some Other Wines from Anjou" — Savennières from Château d'Épiré — Francis Poirel across the river in the Quarts de Chaume — Jo Pithon in the Coteaux du Layon — Hervé Duloquet farther south in the Coteaux du Layon — and, upriver near Saumur, red wine from Clos Rougeard — recommended wines — recipes — Pâtisserie en Boutique (millefeuille, Paris-Brest, tarte au citron) — Rome's Guanciale (Cured Hog Jowl) — gallery: Cider-making in North Devon — notes and resources (cheese from Lake Champlain, Sabatier knives) — letters — books: Thai Food, Chez Panisse Fruit, The Soups of France, Mediterranean Seafood, Vous avez déjà essayez?, and Les Pains français. 36 pp.

no. 62 "Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo" (in twelve categories of food) — "Coulée de Serrant: An Exceptional Wine from the Loire" — conflicting views on the wine — the most fervent believer in biodynamic farming — the vineyard itself — methods in the cellar — would it be better as a sweet wine? — the tasting — addresses — recipes — Searching for Sweet Red (sweet red bell peppers) — Ricotta in the Monti Sicani of Sicily — notes and resources (acacia honey, chocolate from Venezuela) — letters — books: When French Women Cook, Feasting and Fasting in Crete, and The Magic of Fire. 44 pp.

no. 61 "English Food" — and how good is English food? — the raw materials — the fate of the raw materials — a possible explanation for why there isn't more good cooking — real Cornish saffron buns — local beer — the meaning of Heston Blumenthal and the Fat Duck — addresses, recipes — gallery: A Farm Woman's Work — A Question of Balance: The Farming of Fish — Albondigas — notes and resources (old-style smoked Alaska salmon, flavorful grits) — Note from Vichy — letters — books: Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, Damon Lee Fowler's New Southern Kitchen, and The Way of Tea. 40 pp.

no. 60 "Paris (Again): An Annotated Address Book" — Paris and French food — land — culture (the influence of the best wine...) — the advantages of fashion — the addresses by category — recipes — Croissants — Why Escoffier? — The Buckwheat Noodle Festival — notes and resources (wooden spoons, Darjeeling tea) — letters (including home coffee roasting). 40 pp.

no. 59 "Burgundy I" — jambon persillé (parsleyed ham) — the cheese of the Abbey at Cîteaux — very stinky cheese: the story of Époisses (saving the cheese from extinction and the struggle to preserve flavor in an age of super-cleanliness and mass-production, the Époisses of Jean Berthaut, the raw-milk Époisses of the Gaugry family) — pain d'épices de Dijon (spice bread) — addresses, recipes — Baklava — Darjeeling 4: Capturing the Flavor (Plucking and the Factory) — notes and resources (sauerkraut, wild rice, letterpress books, plum pudding, Catskills thyme honey) — books: Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen. 32 pp.

no. 58 "Southern Piedmont Part II: The Great Wines of Barolo and Barbaresco" — how much remains of tradition and why does it matter? — the character of the Nebbiolo grape — the nature of the Langa hills — change comes to Barolo, or how it happened that the traditional wines almost disappeared — the questions about the two kinds of wines, traditional and modern — an intermezzo on polenta — profiles of winemakers — answers — recommended producers, more addresses, recipes — Darjeeling 3: The Elusive Sources of Darjeeling Fragrance — Càdiz Market — notes and resources (chocolate, polenta corn meal, Greek olive oil) — letters — books: The Taste of Bread and Real Wine. 36 pp.

no. 57 "Real Beer in Belgium, the Greatest Brewing Country" — primordial beer (lambic) — the recipe for beer (yeasts are everything) — brewing at a very traditional brewery — authenticity, Interbrew, and where things are going — the saison beers — the complicated good works of the Trappists — hope for a niche — recommended beers, addresses (with a few words on Belgian chocolate), recipes — Charbons — Lemon Curd — At the Moment in Paris (restaurants) — notes and resources (mushrooms, New England corn meal) — letters  — books: Italian Cheese and A Goose in Toulouse. 32 pp.

no. 56 "Southern Piedmont Part I: High Mountain Pastures and a Brief Introduction to the Cooking" — the pursuit of Castelmagno cheese, beginning with a setback — beautiful alpeggio — cheeses from under the heavens — the most respected winemaker, on food — the love of making grappa — above the vines and among the hazelnuts of the Alta Langa — Castelmagno again, at the Stagionatura di Val Casotto — call for confirmation — a few last words about the cooking — addresses, recipes — The Art of Making Phyllo — Darjeeling 2: To Brew Darjeeling Tea — notes and resources (coffee, Castelmagno cheese, Colorado blue cheese) — letters — books, (etc).: The Indian Grocery Store Demystified, Mattanza, and "The Zagat Effect." 32 pp.

no. 55 "Provence: The Cooking of Poor People, Wine from a Southern Climate, Olive Oil from the Valley of Les Baux" — a Provençal cook (Guy Gedda) — another cook and a wine (Lulu Peyraud and the Bandol of Domaine Tempier) — ruins — the garden of a curious man (Jean-Luc Danneyrolles) — the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise of Domaine de Durban — the traditional methods used to make the wine of Palette (Château Simone) — a new kind of olive oil from Les Baux — addresses, recipes — Pastured Poultry — notes and resources (ewe's-milk cheese, olive oil) — letters — books: Port and the Douro, Kitchen Confidential, and Every Night Italian. 32 pp.

no. 54 "Emilia Romagna: The Resurgent Red Cows of Parmigiano Reggiano and Other Stories from the Region Whose Cuisine Has Always Been Called Italy's Richest and Best" — ragù — the exceptional ham called culatello — sapa and real balsamic vinegar from Modena — mortadella — really good wine from Romagna (Fattoria Zerbina) — a cheese buried in the earth — the Italian urge to be "modern" — addresses, recipes — Darjeeling — A Kitchen in Upper Egypt — resources, books, letters. 32 pp.

no. 53 "Sauternes" — the taste of noble rot — the terroir of sugar and how noble rot works — Sémillon, Sauvignon, and the fate of Muscadelle — the picking of only "roasted" grapes — some top châteaux: Climens, Gilette, La Tour Blanche, de Rayne-Vigneau, Guiraud, Rieussec, Suduiraut, d’Yquem — addresses, recipes — notes and resources (lamb, sorghum), books, letters. 28 pp.

no. 52 "Restaurants in Northern Italy" — alta cucina in Milan — What is Italian food? — three more restaurants — a farm that serves meals in the hills of the Oltrepò Pavese — Da Lancellotti — focaccia col formaggio from a shack by the sea — a vast chickpea pancake — a hole-in-the-wall for deep-fried food — addresses, recipes — Richard Olney — resources, letters, books. 24 pp.

no. 51 "The Lost Taste of Pork (Finding a Place for the Iowa Family Farm)" — Paul Willis and traditional outdoor methods — factory farms — letting pigs be pigs — three Iowa market gardeners — Niman Ranch (again) — the question of organic methods — price, accountability, and the small scale of the family farm — cuts of pork, cooking pork, affinities with pork — notes, letters, resources. 24 pp.

no. 50 "Venice" — local food versus tourism — ombre, cicheti and bâcari — the Venetian Lagoon — the Rialto markets and the many kinds of fish —  the fish market at Chioggia — the greens and gardens — pastry — three Venetian dishes — restaurants — addresses. 24 pp.

no. 49 "Sonoma County (and a Look at Tomales Bay)" — the new olive oils — market gardens — the state of farm-made cheeses — extremely good bread — the California-ness of California wine — some grape-growers and winemakers: Lou Preston, Joe Rochioli, Merry Edwards, Warren Dutton — Hog Island oysters — resources and addresses. 24 pp.

no. 48 "Champagne" — the logic of a brand (a blend) as opposed to terroir and vintage — the grapes and vineyards — acid and sugar — visits to a few top houses. "Foie Gras" — the fat markets of Southwest France — small farmers and high quality — the difference between duck and goose foie gras — North American sources.  24 pp.

no. 47 "A Dry-Aged Steak" — the reasons for dry-aging — the cuts — bone in or bone out? and how thick? — sources — red wines for steak. "A Sharp Knife" — materials and design — how to sharpen a knife — brands and a source. 18 pp.

no. 46 "Paris (or What Is French Food?); Part II. More Answers and Places That Are Truly French — three-star restaurants and bistrots — the Halles and the origins of French food — where is French food going and how long will it last? — good addresses. 24 pp.

no. 45 "Paris (or What Is French Food?); Part I, Posing the Question and The Classic Parisian Baguette"— haute cuisine and the urge to dazzle — the qualities that are irreducibly French — the classic Parisian baguette — where it came from — what creates a great one — a baker of baguettes. 20 pp.

no. 44 "Two Strong, Sweet Wines of Mediterranean France (the Banyuls of the Domaine du Mas Blanc and the Maury of the Mas Amiel)" — the wines to drink with chocolate. "Caviar" — the kinds of caviar — how to know what's good — sources."A Gentle Manifesto on the Craft of Roasting Coffee" — coffee is a fruit beverage — the virtues of a moderate roast — sources. 20 pp.

no. 43 "The Caves of Roquefort (the terroir of a great cheese)"— a Roquefort farm — the Lacaune sheep — the caves and the blue mold — what is the terroir? — best brands — how to choose and serve Roquefort — what to drink. 16 pp.

no. 42 "What Creates the Best Vegetables?"— the market garden — the importance of varieties, methods, and environment — is organic better? "Real Country Bacon"— dry-cured Virginia and Kentucky bacon — salt and smoking — best bacon sources. 20 pp.

no. 41"In Tuscany (The Sangiovese Grape, Bread Without Salt, A Pot Shaped Like a Bottle, The Veneration of Olive Oil)"— the evolution of Tuscan red wine and the making of vin santo — a baker of traditional unsalted Tuscan bread — cooking beans in an earthenware Tuscan pot — the great Tuscan olive oil, including the sinolea process. 18 pp.

no. 40 "In the Region of Cognac"— the virtues of the great brandy of the town of Cognac — the butter that is probably the best in France — a farmer of snails — the cheesecake called tourteau fromagé — the traditionally made sea salt of the Ile de Ré. 20 pp.

no. 39 "Looking for Old-Fashioned Cheddar — or — What Became of Store Cheese" — twenty or thirty years ago, wheels of aged North American cheddar were commonplace in the country stores of New York and New England; at its best it was one of the world's great cheeses — a search for survivors and for what made the cheese so good. 16 pp.

no. 38 "Catalan Food"— the ancient, important, little-known cuisine of the region of Catalonia, which includes Barcelona — sausage-makers, cheesemakers, anchovy-curers, simple restaurants. 20 pp.

no. 37 "Munster Cheese, Dry Muscat Wine, Choucroute, and other Happinesses in the Haut-Rhin Of Alsace" — a guide to gastronomic treasures of southern Alsace — addresses. 20 pp.

no. 36 "Dark Chocolate" — the best chocolate in the world is not Belgian or Swiss but French, and the best chocolatiers may also be French (Pierre Hermé, Robert Linxe, the Bernachons) — the provenances of the best beans — how they are transformed into the best chocolate — tastings of American and European brands. 16 pp.

no. 35 "Stone, Sea, and a Dry, Fertile Soil (Encounters in Apulia)" — the strong culinary traditions of the heel of the Italian boot, which is famous for wheat and bread, vegetables, olive oil, wine (albeit more often quantity than quality) — bakers, an exceptional maker pasta-maker, a top olive-oil producer — making ricotta on a mountain farm without electricity — interview with Severino Garofano, outstanding southern enologist. 18 pp.

no. 34 "Gombo (Acadian Food in Southwest Louisiana)"— Cajun food, which is rural food — how to make a roux, recipes for two gumbos — crawfish — the roots of Cajun cooking in Acadia, Africa, and France — differences between "Cajun" and "Creole." 18 pp.

no. 33 "Olive Oil"— focus on the delicate, aromatic oil of Lake Garda in northern Italy — the origins of fine olive flavor — the true meaning of "extra-virgin" (acidic taste has nothing to do with it). 16 pp. 

no. 32 "Three Wines of the Loire (Bourgueil, Vouvray, and Sancerre)" — Loire wines with exceptional character, because of their makers and the soil and stone of particular vineyards — visits to Pierre Caslot, Pierre-Jacques Druet, Philippe Foreau, Gaston Huet, Philippe Ponitowski, Edmond and Bernadette Vatan, Jean-Marie Bourgeois. 18 pp.

no. 31 "The Coast of Maine"— the origins of Downeast cooking — on the water with a lobsterman — lobster pounds, oysters, baked beans, sauerkraut, Indian corn, smoked salmon. 20 pp.

no. 30 "Red-Wine Vinegar"— the last traditional vinegar-maker of the French city of Orléans, and probably of all France, using methods unchanged from the 19th century — what makes great vinegar — how to make it yourself. 14 pp. 

no. 29 "A Well-Crafted White Loaf (Cream-Colored Flours, Gentle Mixers, Hand-Shaping, and Really Flavorful Bread)" — that rarest of breads: great white bread — a visit to Acme Bread Co. in Berkeley, California, and interview with Steve Sullivan — the views of Professor Calvel of Paris — recipe for great white bread. 18 pp. 

no. 28 "In the Vineyards of Friuli" — the northeasternmost region of Italy is home to what may be Italy’s finest white wines and to superb red wines from indigenous varieties — culture, history, origins, winemakers, notes on food and restaurants. 18 pp. 

no. 27 "The Goat Is the Cow of the Poor"— Provençal farm cheeses, superb everyday cheeses as well as rare ones (Le Gardien, Camarguais, true Banon) — open-air markets, some outstanding cheesemakers — the unusual techniques traditional to the south of France. 18 pp.

no. 26 "The Nature of Lamb"with"Restaurant Wine Lists," "Restaurant Critics," and"The American Minor Breeds Conservancy"— pasture-fed, grain-fed, milk-fed lamb — cooking lamb — wine in restaurants — the role of restaurant critics — the AMBC and the importance of old-fashioned farm animals to good eating. 16 pp.

no. 25 "High Standards, Hard Work, Simplicity, and a Good Place to Eat"— the meaning of a "good restaurant" and of "simplicity"— the first French restaurants after the Revolution and how we got where we are today — practicalities, problems of raw materials, expectations of eaters. 14 pp. 

no. 24 "Into the Woods (Wild Mushrooms)" — mushrooming — flavorful North American species — best ways to cook them. 16 pp. 

no. 23 "Maryland Crab" — a sketch of Maryland's Eastern Shore — the blue crabs of the Chesapeake Bay — softshell crab — a recipe for crab cakes and three of Mrs. Howard’s original 19th-century recipes for crab soup. 12 pp.

no. 22 "Pizza in Naples"— pizza in the city where pizza originated and remains better than anywhere else — dough, condiments, the physics of the wood-fired Neapolitan ovens — how pizza came to be in Naples as opposed to anywhere else. 14 pp.

no. 21 "Honey Makers"and"Between Wild and Tame (Farm-Raised Game Birds)" — honey, in its extreme variety, is one of the most vivid reflectors of terroir — what makes the finest honey — portrait of a Vermont beekeeper — plus the "game" birds produced on farms and how to cook them. 16 pp.

no. 20 "A Cup of Coffee" — the flavor of a cup of coffee derives from the beans' geographic origin, from their preparation at the plantation, from how light or dark they are roasted, from the way they are ground and then brewed. 12 pp.