The Art of Eating Back Issue Collections:

	French, Italian, Wine, Cheese, and the Complete Collection.

	If you need them, the Subject Index and the Recipe Index.

In North America, back issues are $12.50 each or $10 each for four or more, postpaid. Sent to other countries, they are $15 each or $12.50 for four or more, postpaid. To order, click here, or call 1.800.495.3944 (US and Can) or 1.802.592.3144 (anywhere).

	no. 83 “Piedmont Beef”  48 pp — mailed December 31st. The Fair of the Fattened Ox in Carrù  John Irving Classic Piedmont Beef Recipes  John Irving Pain au Levain: The Best Flavor, Acidity, and Texture and Where   They Come From (with a Recipe and How to Buy Pain au Levain)    James MacGuire Duck Hunt: In Search of California’s Perfect Wild Waterfowl   Hank Shaw Lingonberries  Lee Reich Lost and Found in the Woods: Funghi Porcini  Nancy Harmon Jenkins Why This Bottle, Really?   Mannie Berk on Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah (Sonoma County) from    Edmunds St. John Notes and Resources   Bannetons Restaurants   Dublin: John McKenna on Chapter One   San Francisco Bay Area: Scott Hocker on Regional Mexican Places Books   John Irving on Maria Pignatelli Ferrante’s Puglia: A Culinary Memoir    (new translation)   Anya Fernald on Giuseppe Coria’s Sicily: Culinary Crossroads    (new translation)   Edward Behr on Michael Steinberger’s Au Revoir to All That: Food,    Wine, and the End of France
	no. 82 “New Paris Bistros”  48 pp. New Ways to Be a Restaurant in Paris: The Casualization of Dining   Bénédict Beaugé and Edward Behr New Paris Recipes (Iñaki Aizpitarte, Guillaume Delage,   Nicolas Scheidt) Cucina Povera: Street Food in Naples  John Irving The Mechanics of Terroir  Derrick Schneider Paximadia: Cretan Twice-Baked Bread  Diana Farr Louis Crunch: Chapulines (Crickets, Grasshoppers, and Locusts), a Mexican  Delicacy  Corinna Sargood Alici di Menaica: Pisciotta’s Big Little Fish  Winnie Yang Why This Bottle, Really?   Patrik St. Vincent on St. Julien from Domaine du Jaugaret Notes and Resources   Curing the “nail polish” in vinegar, further thoughts on Chablis Restaurants   Burgundy: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Grand Couvert   Tuscany: Beth Elon on Antico Colle Books   Petra Tanos on Clara Margaret Czégény’s Helen’s Hungarian    Heritage Recipes   Olivia Wu on Teresa M. Chen’s A Tradition of Soup: Flavors from    China’s Pearl River Delta
	no. 81 “Burgundy II: Chablis”  48 pp. Chablis  Edward Behr A Few Recipes from Burgundy, Suited to a Glass of Chablis  Edward   Behr and James MacGuire Why This Bottle, Really?   Jacqueline Friedrich on Le Fief de Breil (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)    from Domaine de la Louvetrie Notes and Resources    Parmigiano-Reggiano and Valpolicella, saltpeter and taste Restaurants   Chicago: Winnie Yang on L2O   New Haven and Vermont: Edward Behr on Sally’s Apizza and    the Parker Pie Co. Books   Mary Fitzpatrick on Pierre Thiam’s YOLELE! Recipes from:    the Heart of Senegal   Edward Behr on Slow Food’s Dizionario delle cucine regionali italiane   Briefly Noted: What We Eat When We Eat Alone and Les Cuisines     de la Critique Gastronomique
	no. 80 “American Charcuterie”  48 pp. American Charcuterie: The Cooked  Winnie Yang Pâté de Campagne and Other Recipes  Edward Behr and   James MacGuire Mâche: A Salad for the Cold Season  Barbara Damrosch Black Currants  Melissa Pasanen Why This Bottle, Really?   David Schildknecht on La Châtelaine (Bourgogne Vézelay) from    Domaine de la Cadette Notes and Resources   Culture magazine, nonsweet red-wine vinegar, buckwheat honey,    Tennessee ham Restaurants   Santa Fe: Deborah Madison on Tia Sophia’s Books   James MacGuire on Stéphane Reynaud’s Terrine   Rachel Wharton on John Shelton Reed, Dale Volberg Reed, and     William McKinney’s Holy Smoke   Alice Ross on Nancy Carter Crump’s Hearthside Cooking
	no. 79 “ Throwing the Rest Out: A Personal Selection of       Cookbooks”  48 pp. Throwing the Rest Out: A Personal Selection of Cookbooks  Edward Behr West Coast Mussels  Jeff Cox Mussel Recipes  Edward Behr and James MacGuire Brown Sugar from Okinawa  Hiroko Shimbo Medlar: The Rotten Fruit  Lee Reich The Golden Spice: Saffron in Morocco  Corinna Sargood Why This Bottle, Really?   Alice Feiring on Côt from Clos Roche Blanche Notes and Resources   Okinawa brown sugar, Taza chocolate Restaurants   The Marche: John Irving on Da Maria in Fano Books   Kenneth Davids on Scott Rao’s The Professional Barista’s Handbook   John Newton on Paul Richardson’s A Late Dinner   Fabio Parasecoli on Grant Achatz’s Alinea
	no. 78 “Andouillette”  48 pp. The Andouillette of Troyes: Primary Sausage  Edward Behr Fishing for Avgotaraho  Diana Farr Louis Salentine Home Cooking  John Irving Foraging for Clams on Block Island  Hank Shaw Velveting, Deep-Frying, Stir-Frying, and General Tso’s Chicken  Ed Schoenfeld Why This Bottle, Really?   Jacqueline Friedrich on Yannick Amirault's Les Malgagnes from   St. Nicolas de Bourgueil Notes and Resources   Avgotaraho and bottarga, and “My Big, Expensive Stainless-Steel Stove” Books   Nancy Harmon Jenkins on Lori De Mori’s Beaneaters & Bread Soup   Edward Behr on John Thorne’s Mouth Wide Open   Winnie Yang on Ammini Ramachandran’s Grains, Green, and    Grated Coconuts   David Cobbold on Clive Coates’s The Wines of Burgundy
	no. 77 “Island Sheep” 48 pp. Island Sheep: Keeping Flocks Down East  Sam Hayward The Berber Tree of Life and the Acrobatic Goats (Argan Oil)  Corinna Sargood The Palm Honey of La Gomera  Tara Stevens Why This Bottle, Really?   Jamie Goode on Chateau Musar Notes and Resources   A handwrought gridiron, true buttermilk, the Technivorm Restaurants   Los Angeles: Winnie Yang on Pizzeria Mozza   New York: Mitchell Davis on Morandi and Balthazar   Marseille: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Petit Nice   Liguria: John Irving on Antica Osteria dei Mosto Books   Edward Behr on Gillian Riley’s Oxford Companion to Italian Food   James MacGuire on Édouard de Pomaine’s Vingt Plats qui donnent la goutte and on Le Trésor de la cuisine du bassin méditerranéen par     70 médecins de France   David Campbell on Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss’s The Story of Tea and Lydia Gautier’s Tea   Elisa Herr on Sushi Books: Hiroko Shimbo’s The Sushi Experience and     Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art (with a brief sushi glossary)
	no. 76 “Aglianico del Vulture” 48 pp. Aglianico in Basilicata  Edward Behr Tastes Like Rabbit  Derrick Schneider Rabbit Recipes, Mostly French  James MacGuire Notes and Resources (old-fashioned high-carbon Nogent knives,   pruneaux d’Agen) Restaurants:   Florence: Mitchell Davis on Buca dell’Orafo   New York: Mitchell Davis on Momofuku Ssäm Bar Books:   Fabio Parasecoli on Nancy Harmon Jenkins’s Cucina del Sole:     A Celebration of Southern Italian Cooking   Edward Behr on Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page’s What to Drink with What You Eat   Vikram Vij on Niloufer Ichaporia King’s My Bombay Kitchen
	no. 75  “Cloth-Bound Vermont Cheddar” 48 pp. Cloth-Bound: Cabot Creamery, Jasper Hill Farm, and an Older, Better Way to Age Vermont Cheddar  Edward Behr True Wasabi  Rowan Jacobsen The Lamb of Quercy  David Downie The Most Famous Fatback in the World: Lardo di Colonnata  Edward Behr Notes and Resources: sourwood, gallberry, and tupelo honeys Recipes: stewed rhubard, lemon honey flan, hazelnut honey cake,   honey ice cream Restaurants:   Napa: David Campbell on Pilar   New York: Mitchell Davis on Blaue Gans Books:   David Schildknecht on Jacqueline Friedrich's The Wines of France   James MacGuire on Heston Blumenthal: In Search of Perfection   Elisa Herr and Ed Schoenfeld on Fuschia Dunlop's    Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook
	no. 73+74  “20th Anniversary Issue” 80 pp. counts as two issues Questioning Myself  Edward Behr California Olive Oil: Entering a Golden Age  Jeff Cox Truffles, White and Black  David Downie Recipes: chestnut soup, sausages for oysters, salmon soufflé, polpette Gallery: Abenaki Flint Corn (Ruth and Roy Fair)  Ethan Hubbard What Does It Mean Now That a Winemaker Can Select the Structure of a Wine?:   The Lessons of Clark Smith and Vinovation  Derrick Schneider The Baguette  James MacGuire The Shining Drink: Mead Endures  Rowan Jacobsen Restaurants:   France: Bénédict Beaugé on the Gargouillou of Michel Bras   New York: Mitchell Davis on Ducasse, Robuchon, and Le Veau d’Or Notes and Resources Letters Books:   Lesley Chesterman on Elizabeth Prueitt's and Chad Robertson's    Tartine and Pierre Hermé's PH 10   Edward Behr on Jamie Goode's The Science of Wine   and Evan Goldstein's Perfect Pairings   with a note on Paula Wolfert's The Cooking of Southwest France

	no. 72 “A Particular Taste: Vin Jaune and Other Traditional Wines of the Jura” — Recommended wine producers — Addresses in the Franche-Comté — Mexican Vanilla: Sketches in Papantla — A Taste by Any Other Name: Umami Comes West — recipes — notes and resources (garlic, dried morels, filet green beans, Mexican vanilla beans) — letters — books: Lee Reich's Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden. 44 pp.
	no. 71 “Olympia Oysters” — small, nutty, and possibly the best — the fresher, the better — Riesling in the Mosel Valley — Unsalted Italian Bread — recipes — notes and resources (oyster knives, oyster opening, Il Teatro del Sale, Wellfleets, Joe Beef) — letters — books: La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, The Silver Spoon, Steven Shaw's Turning the Tables, Trevor Corson's The Secret Life of Lobsters, and Elizabeth Andoh's Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen.40 pp.
	no. 70 “Gruyère de Comté” — Tropical Fruit in Homestead, Florida — Science and the Pursuit of a Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg, Roast Chicken, and Flaky Pie Crust — Vegetables in Italy — recipes — notes and resources (dried corn) — books: How-to Bread Books, Max McCalman's Cheese, Patience Gray's The Centaur's Kitchen, and John T. Edge's Fried Chicken, Apple Pie, and Hamburgers & Fries. 48 pp.
	no. 69 “Contemporary Restaurants in MontreaI” — a surge of energy and a particular style, the old cooking, the future — addresses in Montreal — Burgundy's Charolais Beef — Maine Fish Chowder — Patience Gray — Comment: The revolution in wine is not that simple — recipes — notes and resources (roasting and the clockjack, New York restaurant update) — books: Mes Tartes, Cooking Weeds, and On Food and Cooking. 48 pp.
	no. 68 “Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part II” — bagels, bread, cheese, chocolate, coffee, equipment, ice cream, meat, pastry, various ingredients, wine — The Best Red-Wine Vinegar You're Likely to Find Is the One You Make Yourself — Tasting Wisconsin — The Dilemma of Foie Gras — recipes — notes and resources (Tuscan olive oil, shagbark hickory nuts, shagbark hickory syrup) — books: The Whole Beast and Country Scrapple. 40 pp.
	no. 67 “Beaujolais: The Goal of a Gulpable Wine” — the wine was no longer supposed to exist — the place and the Gamay grape — Lyon and la cuisine lyonnaise — but wasn't the wine made differently back then? — Marcel Lapierre and the microscope group — Jean Foillard in Morgon — Yvon Métras in Fleurie — Louis-Claude and Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes in Morgon — Jean-Paul Brun in the Golden Stones — Château Thivin in the Côte de Brouilly — Paul Janin et Fils in Moulin-à-Vent — how close are these wines to the Beaujolais ideal? — some recommended vignerons — addresses in the Beaujolais and Lyon — Hunting for California Terroir: Western Paso Robles — recipes — letters — books: Italian Easy, How to Run a Restaurant, The Fate of Family Farming, and Recipes from Corsica. 48 pp.
	no. 66 “Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part I” — Food you eat standing up, American, breakfast, Chinese, dessert, French, Greek, Italian, Japanese, Jewish, Korean, Latin, Middle Eastern, Mitteleuropean, steak, Thai — The Genovese Basil of Prà — notes and resources (smoked fish, more cheese from Vermont) — letters — books: Pierre Gagnaire: Reflections on Culinary Artistry, The Cook's Canon: 101 Classic Recipes Everyone Should Know, and Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating. 44 pp.
	no. 65 “Sicily” — the freshness of the fish — a fertile obstacle in the middle — Cúscusu in Trapani and the Arab influence — Giuseppe Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa — a sketch of Palermo — the wine to go with the meal — and what about Marsala? — a cannolo and works in progress — an unexpected meal in darkness — addresses in Sicily — recipes — Liguria's torta salata — Precision Cuts: Japanese Knives — gallery: Barbecue — notes and resources (butter, capers, cider vinegar, coffee) — letters — books: The Good Cuisine, Glorious French Food, Cuisine Naturelle, The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, The Brewmaster's Table, and Giuliano Bugialli's Food of Naples and Campania. 48 pp.
	no. 64 “Good Veal” — bad veal — a barnyard and fresh milk — a market outside the commodity market — cook veal gently, as a rule — toward a definition of good veal — is it veal if it's grass-fed? — how small veal producers survive and a possible dairy-farm model for the future — addresses — recipes — The Roundup of Darjeeling Essentials (with recommended gardens and importers) — The Pleasures and Challenge of Elizabeth David — gallery: Grenada — In Paris: La Table de Lucullus — notes and resources (Greek oregano, Colorado cheese shop, cream in spinach, a new wine newsletter) — letters — books: The Pleasures of Slow Food, The Last Days of Haute Cuisine, and Purer. 48 pp.
	no. 63 “Some Other Wines from Anjou” — Savennières from Château d'Épire; — Francis Poirel across the river in the Quarts de Chaume — Jo Pithon in the Coteaux du Layon — Hervé Duloquet farther south in the Coteaux du Layon — and, upriver near Saumur, red wine from Clos Rougeard — recommended wines — recipes — Pâtisserie en Boutique (millefeuille, Paris-Brest, tarte au citron) — Rome's Guanciale (Cured Hog Jowl) — gallery: Cider-making in North Devon — notes and resources (cheese from Lake Champlain, Sabatier knives) — letters — books: Thai Food, Chez Panisse Fruit, The Soups of France, Mediterranean Seafood, Vous avez déjà essayez?, and Les Pains français. 36 pp.
	no. 62 “Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo” (in twelve categories of food) — “Coulée de Serrant: An Exceptional Wine from the Loire” — conflicting views on the wine — the most fervent believer in biodynamic farming — the vineyard itself — methods in the cellar — would it be better as a sweet wine? — the tasting — addresses — recipes — Searching for Sweet Red (sweet red bell peppers) — Ricotta in the Monti Sicani of Sicily — notes and resources (acacia honey, chocolate from Venezuela) — letters — books: When French Women Cook, Feasting and Fasting in Crete, and The Magic of Fire. 44 pp.
	no. 61 “English Food” — and how good is English food? — the raw materials — the fate of the raw materials — a possible explanation for why there isn't more good cooking — real Cornish saffron buns — local beer — the meaning of Heston Blumenthal and the Fat Duck — addresses, recipes — gallery: A Farm Woman's Work — A Question of Balance: The Farming of Fish — Albondigas — notes and resources (old-style smoked Alaska salmon, flavorful grits) — Note from Vichy — letters — books: Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, Damon Lee Fowler's New Southern Kitchen, and The Way of Tea. 40 pp.
	no. 60 “Paris (Again): An Annotated Address Book” — Paris and French food — land — culture (the influence of the best wine...) — the advantages of fashion — the addresses by category — recipes — Croissants — Why Escoffier? — The Buckwheat Noodle Festival — notes and resources (wooden spoons, Darjeeling tea) — letters (including home coffee roasting). 40 pp.
	no. 59 “Burgundy I” — jambon persillé (parsleyed ham) — the cheese of the Abbey at Cîteaux — very stinky cheese: the story of Époisses (saving the cheese from extinction and the struggle to preserve flavor in an age of super-cleanliness and mass-production, the Époisses of Jean Berthaut, the raw-milk Époisses of the Gaugry family) — pain d'épices de Dijon (spice bread) — addresses, recipes — Baklava — Darjeeling 4: Capturing the Flavor (Plucking and the Factory) — notes and resources (sauerkraut, wild rice, letterpress books, plum pudding, Catskills thyme honey) — books: Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen. 32 pp.
	no. 58 “Southern Piedmont Part II: The Great Wines of Barolo and Barbaresco” — how much remains of tradition and why does it matter? — the character of the Nebbiolo grape — the nature of the Langa hills — change comes to Barolo, or how it happened that the traditional wines almost disappeared — the questions about the two kinds of wines, traditional and modern — an intermezzo on polenta — profiles of winemakers — answers — recommended producers, more addresses, recipes — Darjeeling 3: The Elusive Sources of Darjeeling Fragrance — Càdiz Market — notes and resources (chocolate, polenta corn meal, Greek olive oil) — letters — books: The Taste of Bread and Real Wine. 36 pp.
	no. 57 “Real Beer in Belgium, the Greatest Brewing Country” — primordial beer (lambic) — the recipe for beer (yeasts are everything) — brewing at a very traditional brewery — authenticity, Interbrew, and where things are going — the saison beers — the complicated good works of the Trappists — hope for a niche — recommended beers, addresses (with a few words on Belgian chocolate), recipes — Charbons — Lemon Curd — At the Moment in Paris (restaurants) — notes and resources (mushrooms, New England corn meal) — letters  — books: Italian Cheese and A Goose in Toulouse. 32 pp.
	no. 56 “Southern Piedmont Part I: High Mountain Pastures and a Brief Introduction to the Cooking” — the pursuit of Castelmagno cheese, beginning with a setback — beautiful alpeggio — cheeses from under the heavens — the most respected winemaker, on food — the love of making grappa — above the vines and among the hazelnuts of the Alta Langa — Castelmagno again, at the Stagionatura di Val Casotto — call for confirmation — a few last words about the cooking — addresses, recipes — The Art of Making Phyllo — Darjeeling 2: To Brew Darjeeling Tea — notes and resources (coffee, Castelmagno cheese, Colorado blue cheese) — letters — books, (etc).: The Indian Grocery Store Demystified, Mattanza, and “The Zagat Effect.” 32 pp.
	no. 55 “Provence: The Cooking of Poor People, Wine from a Southern Climate, Olive Oil from the Valley of Les Baux” — a Provençal cook (Guy Gedda) — another cook and a wine (Lulu Peyraud and the Bandol of Domaine Tempier) — ruins — the garden of a curious man (Jean-Luc Danneyrolles) — the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise of Domaine de Durban — the traditional methods used to make the wine of Palette (Château Simone) — a new kind of olive oil from Les Baux — addresses, recipes — Pastured Poultry — notes and resources (ewe's-milk cheese, olive oil) — letters — books: Port and the Douro, Kitchen Confidential, and Every Night Italian. 32 pp.
	no. 54 “Emilia Romagna: The Resurgent Red Cows of Parmigiano Reggiano and Other Stories from the Region Whose Cuisine Has Always Been Called Italy's Richest and Best” — ragù — the exceptional ham called culatello — sapa and real balsamic vinegar from Modena — mortadella — really good wine from Romagna (Fattoria Zerbina) — a cheese buried in the earth — the Italian urge to be “modern” — addresses, recipes — Darjeeling — A Kitchen in Upper Egypt — resources, books, letters. 32 pp.
	no. 53 “Sauternes” — the taste of noble rot — the terroir of sugar and how noble rot works — Sémillon, Sauvignon, and the fate of Muscadelle — the picking of only “roasted” grapes — some top châteaux: Climens, Gilette, La Tour Blanche, de Rayne-Vigneau, Guiraud, Rieussec, Suduiraut, d’Yquem — addresses, recipes — notes and resources (lamb, sorghum), books, letters. 28 pp.
	no. 52 “Restaurants in Northern Italy” — alta cucina in Milan — What is Italian food? — three more restaurants — a farm that serves meals in the hills of the Oltrepò Pavese — Da Lancellotti — focaccia col formaggio from a shack by the sea — a vast chickpea pancake — a hole-in-the-wall for deep-fried food — addresses, recipes — Richard Olney — resources, letters, books. 24 pp.
	no. 51 “The Lost Taste of Pork (Finding a Place for the Iowa Family Farm)” — Paul Willis and traditional outdoor methods — factory farms — letting pigs be pigs — three Iowa market gardeners — Niman Ranch (again) — the question of organic methods — price, accountability, and the small scale of the family farm — cuts of pork, cooking pork, affinities with pork — notes, letters, resources. 24 pp.
	no. 50 “Venice” — local food versus tourism — ombre, cicheti and bâcari — the Venetian Lagoon — the Rialto markets and the many kinds of fish —  the fish market at Chioggia — the greens and gardens — pastry — three Venetian dishes — restaurants — addresses. 24 pp.
	no. 49 “Sonoma County (and a Look at Tomales Bay)” — the new olive oils — market gardens — the state of farm-made cheeses — extremely good bread — the California-ness of California wine — some grape-growers and winemakers: Lou Preston, Joe Rochioli, Merry Edwards, Warren Dutton — Hog Island oysters — resources and addresses. 24 pp.
	no. 48 “Champagne” — the logic of a brand (a blend) as opposed to terroir and vintage — the grapes and vineyards — acid and sugar — visits to a few top houses. “Foie Gras” — the fat markets of Southwest France — small farmers and high quality — the difference between duck and goose foie gras — North American sources.  24 pp.
	no. 47 “A Dry-Aged Steak” — the reasons for dry-aging — the cuts — bone in or bone out? and how thick? — sources — red wines for steak. “A Sharp Knife” — materials and design — how to sharpen a knife — brands and a source. 18 pp.
	no. 46 “Paris (or What Is French Food?); Part II. More Answers and Places That Are Truly French” — three-star restaurants and bistrots — the Halles and the origins of French food — where is French food going and how long will it last? — good addresses. 24 pp.
	no. 45 “Paris (or What Is French Food?); Part I, Posing the Question and The Classic Parisian Baguette” — haute cuisine and the urge to dazzle — the qualities that are irreducibly French — the classic Parisian baguette — where it came from — what creates a great one — a baker of baguettes . 20 pp.
	no. 44 “Two Strong, Sweet Wines of Mediterranean France (the Banyuls of the Domaine du Mas Blanc and the Maury of the Mas Amiel)” — the wines to drink with chocolate. “Caviar” — the kinds of caviar — how to know what's good — sources.“A Gentle Manifesto on the Craft of Roasting Coffee” — coffee is a fruit beverage — the virtues of a moderate roast — sources. 20 pp.
	no. 43 “The Caves of Roquefort (the terroir of a great cheese)”— a Roquefort farm — the Lacaune sheep — the caves and the blue mold — what is the terroir? — best brands — how to choose and serve Roquefort — what to drink. 16 pp.
	no. 42 “What Creates the Best Vegetables?” — the market garden — the importance of varieties, methods, and environment — is organic better? “Real Country Bacon” — dry-cured Virginia and Kentucky bacon — salt and smoking — best bacon sources. 20 pp.
	no. 41 “In Tuscany (The Sangiovese Grape, Bread Without Salt, A Pot Shaped Like a Bottle, The Veneration of Olive Oil)” — the evolution of Tuscan red wine and the making of vin santo — a baker of traditional unsalted Tuscan bread — cooking beans in an earthenware Tuscan pot — the great Tuscan olive oil, including the sinolea process. 18 pp.
	no. 40 “In the Region of Cognac” — the virtues of the great brandy of the town of Cognac — the butter that is probably the best in France — a farmer of snails — the cheesecake called tourteau fromagé — the traditionally made sea salt of the Ile de Ré. 20 pp.
	no. 39 “Looking for Old-Fashioned Cheddar — or — What Became of Store Cheese” — twenty or thirty years ago, wheels of aged North American cheddar were commonplace in the country stores of New York and New England; at its best it was one of the world's great cheeses — a search for survivors and for what made the cheese so good. 16 pp.
	no. 38 “Catalan Food” — the ancient, important, little-known cuisine of the region of Catalonia, which includes Barcelona — sausage-makers, cheesemakers, anchovy-curers, simple restaurants. 20 pp.
	no. 37 “Munster Cheese, Dry Muscat Wine, Choucroute, and other Happinesses in the Haut-Rhin Of Alsace” — a guide to gastronomic treasures of southern Alsace — addresses. 20 pp.
	no. 36 “Dark Chocolate” — the best chocolate in the world is not Belgian or Swiss but French, and the best chocolatiers may also be French (Pierre Hermé, Robert Linxe, the Bernachons) — the provenances of the best beans — how they are transformed into the best chocolate — tastings of American and European brands. 16 pp.
	no. 35 “Stone, Sea, and a Dry, Fertile Soil (Encounters in Apulia)”— the strong culinary traditions of the heel of the Italian boot, which is famous for wheat and bread, vegetables, olive oil, wine (albeit more often quantity than quality) — bakers, an exceptional maker pasta-maker, a top olive-oil producer — making ricotta on a mountain farm without electricity — interview with Severino Garofano, outstanding southern enologist. 18 pp.
	no. 34 “Gombo (Acadian Food in Southwest Louisiana)” — Cajun food, which is rural food — how to make a roux, recipes for two gumbos — crawfish — the roots of Cajun cooking in Acadia, Africa, and France — differences between “Cajun” and “Creole.” 18 pp.
	no. 33 “Olive Oil” — focus on the delicate, aromatic oil of Lake Garda in northern Italy — the origins of fine olive flavor — the true meaning of “extra-virgin” (acidic taste has nothing to do with it). 16 pp.
	no. 32 “Three Wines of the Loire (Bourgueil, Vouvray, and Sancerre)” — Loire wines with exceptional character, because of their makers and the soil and stone of particular vineyards — visits to Pierre Caslot, Pierre-Jacques Druet, Philippe Foreau, Gaston Huet, Philippe Ponitowski, Edmond and Bernadette Vatan, Jean-Marie Bourgeois. 18 pp.
	no. 31 “The Coast of Maine” — the origins of Downeast cooking — on the water with a lobsterman — lobster pounds, oysters, baked beans, sauerkraut, Indian corn, smoked salmon. 20 pp.
	no. 30 “Red-Wine Vinegar” — the last traditional vinegar-maker of the French city of Orleans, and probably of all France, using methods unchanged from the 19th century — what makes great vinegar — how to make it yourself. 14 pp.
	no. 29 “A Well-Crafted White Loaf (Cream-Colored Flours, Gentle Mixers, Hand-Shaping, and Really Flavorful Bread)” — that rarest of breads: great white bread — a visit to Acme Bread Co. in Berkeley, California, and interview with Steve Sullivan — the views of Professor Calvel of Paris — recipe for great white bread. 18 pp.
	no. 28 “In the Vineyards of Friuli” — the northeasternmost region of Italy is home to what may be Italy’s finest white wines and to superb red wines from indigenous varieties — culture, history, origins, winemakers, notes on food and restaurants. 18 pp.
	no. 27 “The Goat Is the Cow of the Poor” — Provençal farm cheeses, superb everyday cheeses as well as rare ones (Le Gardien, Camarguais, true Banon) — open-air markets, some outstanding cheesemakers — the unusual techniques traditional to the south of France. 18 pp.
	no. 26 “The Nature of Lamb” with “Restaurant Wine Lists,” “Restaurant Critics,” and “The American Minor Breeds Conservancy” — pasture-fed, grain-fed, milk-fed lamb — cooking lamb — wine in restaurants — the role of restaurant critics — the AMBC and the importance of old-fashioned farm animals to good eating. 16 pp.
	no. 25 “High Standards, Hard Work, Simplicity, and a Good Place to Eat”— the meaning of a “good restaurant” and of “simplicity”— the first French restaurants after the Revolution and how we got where we are today — practicalities, problems of raw materials, expectations of eaters. 14 pp.
	no. 24 “Into the Woods (Wild Mushrooms)” — mushrooming — flavorful North American species — best ways to cook them. 16 pp.
	no. 23 “Maryland Crab” — a sketch of Maryland's Eastern Shore — the blue crabs of the Chesapeake Bay — softshell crab — a recipe for crab cakes and three of Mrs. Howard’s original 19th-century recipes for crab soup. 12 pp.
	no. 22 “Pizza in Naples” — pizza in the city where pizza originated and remains better than anywhere else — dough, condiments, the physics of the wood-fired Neapolitan ovens — how pizza came to be in Naples as opposed to anywhere else. 14 pp.
	no. 21 “Honey Makers”and “Between Wild and Tame (Farm-Raised Game Birds)” — honey, in its extreme variety, is one of the most vivid reflectors of terroir — what makes the finest honey — portrait of a Vermont beekeeper — plus the “game” birds produced on farms and how to cook them. 16 pp.
	no. 20 “A Cup of Coffee” — the flavor of a cup of Coffee derives from the beans' geographic origin, from their preparation at the plantation, from how light or dark they are roasted, from the way they are ground and then brewed. 12 pp.
	no. 19 “California Sauvignon Blanc ” — potatoes. 12 pp.
	no. 18 “The Pursuit of the Fundamental Loaf” — choosing apple varieties. 12 pp.
	no. 17 “An Aged Country Ham” — on English and French mustards. 12 pp.
	no. 16 “The Atlantic Salmon” — English walnuts — salad cucumbers. 12 pp.
	no. 15 “Elegy for the Taste of Cream” — eggs. 12 pp.
	no. 14 “Wine from Barley” — The French Cheese Book — a mussel primer — eight sourdough cultures. 12 pp.
	no. 13 “Bourbon, Mexican, and Tahitian Vanillas” — bay leaves — a pot on the fire (stock). 12 pp.
	no. 12 “Apples, Apples, Apples” — recommended American cheeses: an updated list — wild boar — book review: Pomp and Sustenance. 14 pp.
	no. 11 “La Cuisine Québécoise” — the sweet orange carrot — cooking times. 12 pp.
	no. 10 “Black Pepper” — of wild yeast, Rhode Island rye, and Indian corn — books: French Wine, French Food — The Field and Garden Vegetables of America. 12 pp.
	no. 9 “A Flavorful Tomato, Revisited” — a sense of place — food in the hill country — Chez Panisse cooking — Rote Grütze. 12 pp.
	no. 8 “American Cheeses: Recommendations” — storing and serving cheese — the situation with sheep cheeses — a sharp knife — labiatae (a few words about the mint family). 12 pp.
	no. 7 “To Bake a Fish” — hybrids and standards in the kitchen garden — three recipes for baked fish — how to tell a fresh fish — some books about fish. 8 pp.
	no. 6 “Millstones, Old Mills, and the Taste of Bread” — why use good ingredients? — a favorite cake — exploiting stone-ground flavor. 8 pp.
	no. 5 “Roast Beef, Roasting, and Some Accompaniments to Roast Beef” — Soufflé Napolitain — prime beef and aging. 8 pp.
	no. 4 “Brioche” — a ripe, flavorful tomato — advice to gardeners — a september menu. 8 pp.
	no. 3 “Fresh Sausages for the Grill” — Tahitian vanilla — the goodness of salt. 8 pp.
	no. 2 “Fresh Cheeses: Milk Cheeses and Cream Cheeses” — sorrel — notes on orange custard — buying Camembert and Brie. 8 pp.
	no. 1 “A Fundamental Loaf” — Les Fours à pain au Québec — a well-poached custard — notes on chervil. 8 pp.

	Subject Index		Recipe Index

In North America, back issues are $12.50 each or $10.00 each for four or more, postpaid.

Sent to other countries, they are $15 each or $12.50 for four or more, postpaid.

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